jrsaiYtfoteti&um 
Manual 



H 






C'Crritt 



W^r^ 



Nathan Smith, (SI Son 



Adrian, Mich* 



CKrysantliei] 



1? or all 

purposes 



We import the best foreign 

H^^^l varieties 



We produce the best 
American seedlings 



Our collection of standard 
arieties is unsurpassed 



Nathan Smith <St Son 

Adrian, Mich. 

Catalogue on applicaf > ' 



SMITH'S 
CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 



BY 

ELMER- D. SMITH 



WHO HAS GIVEN HIS UNDIVIDED ATTENTION FOR 

TWENTY YEARS TO THE IMPROVEMENT OF 

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM AND ITS 

CULTURE IN DETAIL. 



V 



TRICE 25 CENTS. 



Copyright, J904, by Elmer D. Smith. 



ADRIAN MICH.: 

FINCH, THE PRINTER. 

1904. 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 

Two Copies Received 

MAY 7 1904 

Cooyrlfrht Entry 

CLASS cuXXc. No. 

COPY B 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 
6 

INTRODUCTION 7 

CHAPTER I.-HISTORY 8 

CHAPTER II.— STOCK PLANTS "!'.".... 9 

Early Propagation " 9 

Cold Frames * * 9 

Field-grown . . 10 

Imported Stock ... 10 

Novelties and Scarce Sorts n 

CHAPTER HI -PROPAGATION ;;;•; n 

Cutting Bench 11 

Selection of Cuttings _ 11 

Making Cuttings 12 

Air and Temperature " 12 

Shading ...... 13 

Watering 13 

Saucer System 14 

English Method .'.'.'.'.'.'. 14 

Divisions 14 

Potting " " 15 

CHAPTER IV .-SPECIMEN PLANTS ■ 15 

*Soil 15 

Repotting 16 

Stopping ' ; ; 16 

Drainage 17 

Final Potting "_ 17 

Watering 17 

Staking 20 

Disbudding " ' * ' 20 

Feeding 00 

CHAPTER V.-MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS ^ 

Standards '..'... 23 

For Market ' ###> 23 

Single Stemmed. "" 23 

Miniature [\ 24 

For Cut Flowers 24 

Grafted . 25 

In Open Border 26 

Hardy Chrysanthemums 

CHAPTER VL-PACKING PLANTS •■ 26 

For Express _ 27 

For Mail !"..'..... 28 

For Export 2 q 

CHAPTER VIL-EXHIBITION BLOOMS •••••; ^ 

Planting " 30 

Firming 31 

Tying ! .'. .... '.1 

Watering •»• . ... $2 

Spraying 33 

Airing 33 

Shading ., .>, «3 

Scalding ; ... 38 

Top-dressing '••■ "' a? 

Removing Stools ' '35 

Blind Growth .. * "" 36 

Chemical Fertilizers '.'.'.".'... 36 

Lime " 



CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VII.— Continued. Page. 

Iron 36 

Liquid Manure 38 

Burning and Damping 38 

Buds and Disbudding 39 

Taking the Buds 40 

Stopping 43 

Record of Operations 43 

CHAPTER VIII.— EXHIBITION BLOOMS 43 

( J r< >\vn out-of-doors 43 

Australian M et hod 45 

Shelter or Snug Harbor 47 

' CHAPTER IX.— COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 48 

Feeding " '. .". 48 

Buds '.. .'. 49 

Early 49 

Late 49 

Height of Plants 49 

When to C ut 50 

CHAPTER X.— INSECTS 51 

Aphis 51 

Red Spider '. 51 

Thrips 52 

Mealy Bug 52 

Grasshoppers 52 

Tarnished Plant Bug 52 

Cory thuca Gossypi 54 

Grub Worm 54 

Cut Worm 54 

Lady Bird 54 

Golden Eye 54 

Chrysanthemum Fly 55 

CHAPTER XL— DISEASES 55 

Rust 55 

Leaf Spot 57 

Mildew 58 

CHAPTER XII.— SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 58 

Seed Plants 60 

Fertilizing 60 

Seedlings 62 

Sports 63 

CHAPTER XIII. —PREPARING EXHIBITS 64 

Plants 64 

Cut Flowers 65 

Foreign Shipments 67 

Dressing Flowers 68 

Staging Plants 68 

Staging Blooms 68 

Boards 70 

. f Vases 70 

. : *4 HAP T BR X I V *. i-£ X 111 2? I T I O N S ' 71 

» » • , .ThtjManagtfnfrtrt. * 71 

* •« ,r ni<J Judge*. *.t..«...i 72 

The Exhibitor 75 

.•"CJI^P^ER'XV.— TV.PE.S, ETC 75 

J » • ! Identifying •..* . * 77 

'„• :• * Selection.... ';..•• 77 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page. 

o 

Frontispiece 

Figure 1— Cuttings 12 

2— A plant by division 13 

19 

22 



3— Specimen plant 
4— Market plant — 



5— Bench tied to wire. 



31 

6— Bench tied to twine 32 

7— Overfed plants 35 

8_ Crown Bud 40 

9_Terminal Bud 41 

10— Bloom from Crown 42 

11— Shelter or Snug Harbor 47 

12 -Bloom from Terminal 48 

13— Comparative Height from Crown and Terminal 50 

14— Tarnished Plant Bug 52 

15— Depredation of the Tarnished Plant Bug 53 

16— Flower trimmed for Fertilization 60 

17_pi 8 tillate and Staminate Florets 61 

18— A Collection properly staged •• • 69 



INTRODUCTION, 



During the past twenty years, I have devoted much time 
and energy to the cultivation and improvement of the Chrys- 
anthemum and have received many inquiries from those de- 
sirous of gaining knowledge on this subject. Confronted with 
these facts, and realizing the urgent need for a complete, as 
well as practical treatise, at a price within the reach of all, I 
make this attempt in compliance with these demands. 

It is my desire to concisely set forth in these pages all de- 
tails pertaining to Chrysanthemum culture, beginning with 
stock plants, treating the many branches, through each stage of 
development, up to and including the staging of plants and 
cut blooms. 

Most of the works upon this subject have been confined to 
methods practical only to florists, having every facility neces- 
sary to successful culture. 

The amateur, growing a few plants for pleasure and eager 
for better results, has been entirely overlooked. It is hoped this 
booklet will meet the requirements of all. 

There is no plant which responds more freely to careful at- 
tention than the Chrysanthemum. The whole secret of success 
lies in prompt attention to details and when these are thor- 
oughly understood and executed, we may expect a generous 
reward. 

ELMER D. SMITH, 

Member of the Chrysanthemum Society of America, 
The National Chrysanthemum Society of England, and 
Society Francaise des Chrysanthemistes. 



SMITH'S 

Chrysanthemum Manual. 



chapter I. 

HISTORY. 



The derivation of the word Chrysanthemum is from the 
Greek words Chrysos, gold,— and Anthemon, a flower. It is 
not easy to say how long the Chrysanthemum has been known 
to mankind, but undoubtedly over 2000 years have elapsed 
since it was first known in the Celestial Empire. 

In Japan its cultivation can be traced back over 700 years. 
Breynius,in 1639, was the first European to mention the Chrys- 
anthemum under the name of Matricaria Japonica Maxima. 
M. Pierre Louis Blancard introduced the first large flowering 
varieties into England in 1789 and the following year they were 
flowered and named. Mr. John Salter was one of the earliest 
English hybridizers, and produced many wonderful varieties 
from 1838 to 1848. 

As near as can be ascertained, it has been seventy years 
since they were introduced into America. Dr. H. P. Walcott 
is credited as being the first person in this country to raise 
new varieties from seed, which he did as early as 1879. The 
work of hybridization was taken up by Wm, K. Harris and John 
Thorpe early in the 80's. 

Their efforts were crowned with great success both originat- 
ing many new and startling varieties. These results were in- 
centive to others until the zenith was reached in 1894, when 
163 new varieties were offered for sale, many of which were 
inferior to those then in commerce. This condition caused 



8 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

many to be skeptical, doubting the merits of the so-called 
novelties, until fully tested. 

In the meantime, John Thorpe had conceived the idea of 
organizing a society to protect the interests and also promote 
the development of this flower which was fast gaining popu- 
larity. In 1890, at Buffalo the organization now known as the 
Chrysanthemum Society of America, was established. In 1894 
this society appointed committees composed of experts to meet 
during the following season at Chicago, Cincinnati, Philadel- 
phia, New York and Boston, to inspect seedlings and sports. 
These committees have been continued from year to year, 
awarding first-class certificates to the deserving ones. 

Such action brought the varieties certificated into promi- 
nence, and those which failed to meet their commendation 
were so little sought after as to be unprofitable, and many dis- 
continued hybridizing. Up to the present the Society has cer- 
tificated 265 varieties, most of which were of American origin; 
although a few importations have been thus favored. 

Xhe first exhibition given by the C. S. A. was in November 
1902, under the auspices of the Horticultural Society of Chica- 
go. Last year it was held at New York, in co-operation with 
the American Institute. The next exhibition will be held 
November 3rd to 6th, 1904, at Boston, with the Massachusetts 
Horticultural Society. 

CHAPTER II. 

STOCK PLANTS. 

At the close of the flowering season the old plants must be 
saved for stock, from which to propagate young plants for 
another year's use. Each grower must decide how many will 
be required and provide the most suitable situation for their 
maintenance. 

The amateur will need only two or three of a kind, 
while the commercial florist may need several thousand 
of the most popular sorts to meet his demand. Some varieties 
are more susceptible of being increased than others, making 
cuttings abundantly and rooting freely. 



STOCK PLANTS. 9 

Those who propagate for their own use only should keep 
the plants in a low temperature, just above freezing and even 
a few degrees of frost will not materially injure them. They 
thrive best when kept on the dry side during the dark days of 
winter, at which time they are rather inactive. The florist who 
requires quantities for early distribution, will be obliged to 
give higher temperature, about 50 degrees; and their needs for 
water should be carefully considered, avoiding if possible too 
abundant and frequent use, as such a course tends to weaken 
the plants, thus giving sickly cuttings. 

Early Propagation- Stock plants for early propagation are 
generally planted on greenhouse benches, producing successive 
crops of cuttings. With the new and scarce sorts it is some- 
times advisable to take cuttings even as early as September or 
October, and as soon as rooted, these are planted in shallow 
boxes or upon the bench. When large enough the tops are 
taken off as cuttings. This induces the plants to make new 
breaks, which are used for cuttings when of suitable size. 

Cold Frame*. — The cold frame system is most practical for 
those who do not have greenhouses, and the wholesale florist 
who needs large quantities of plants for June and July deliv- 
ery, will find them equally serviceable. 

In the construction of cold frames there is no objection to 
excavating one or two feet, provided ample drainage can be 
secured; otherwise it is best to make board frames and plant 
stock on the level or slightly elevated so that no surplus moist- 
ure will remain about the roots. Stock thus stored should be 
protected by covering the frames with boards. To prevent 
continual freezing and thawing, these frames may be covered 
with course manure or litter. Most varieties are not injured 
by freezing provided they are kept in this condition until 
spring. 

Field Grown. — Field grown stock is in every way more 

satisfactory than that which has produced blooms under glass. 

They appear to possess more vigor and give successive crops 

with greater rapidity. These may be handled in cold frames 

2 



10 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

as previously mentioned, or removed to greenhouse when early 
propagation is necessary. 

Imported Stock.— Those importing foreign varieties often 
find them in very poor condition when unpacked. This is not 
to be wondered at when we consider they are two to six weeks 
in transit. They are generally packed in dry cocoanut fiber, 
and when taken from the box look like dry sticks. It is only 
bv the utmost vigilance and care that such plants are nursed 
into activity. Immerse them into tepid water for a few hours 
to plump the wood and roots. 

After removing all lifeless growth, pot them in light soil, 
using as small a pot as will accommodate the roots. It should 
be the aim to induce root growth as soon as possible and to do 
this plunge them into a close case which is provided with 
gentle bottom heat, about 70 degrees will suffice. See that the 
material in which they are plunged is kept on the dry side and 
use water rather sparingly until they begin to grow freely. 
They should be looked to several times each day and if the 
plants or soil show signs of fungus, ventilation must be given, 
for such conditions, if not promptly checked, are fatal. It is 
often wise to remove the cuttings when quite small and root 
them, especially if the old plants are weak or show signs of 
decay. 

By taking this course it is possible to establish a small plant 
upon its own root, which would otherwise be lost if allowed to 
remain until the old plant had gained vigor. 

Novelties and Scarce Sorts. — Novelties and scarce sorts are 
often bought in limited quantity to propagate from. The best 
results are obtained by planting these young plants into flats 
(shallow boxes), or upon the bench in shallow soil. As soon as 
they show signs of growth, the tops are taken as cuttings and 
the plants are treated thereafter same as stock plants. 



PROPAGATION. 11 

CHAPTER III. 

PROPAGATION. 

Assuming the plants have been cared for and are in proper 
condition, the next step is the propagation of young plants. 
This is best done with soft wood cuttings or divisions, the 
former however, are generally used. 

Cutting Bench. — The cutting bench is simply a table or 
bench constructed to hold three or four inches of material 
into which the cuttings may be inserted. Clean washed sand 
is considered the best material, but when unavailable, coke, 
brick or stone finely crushed and screened will give very satis- 
factory results. After the bench is filled with sand it should 
be pounded as firm as possible and given a thorough watering 
when it is ready for use. In preparing these benches see that 
all material is clean and free from decaying matter and to this 
end a coat of whitewash will be beneficial. 

Selection of Cuttings. — In the selection of cuttings it is gener- 
ally conceded the strong and vigorous are the best, although 
on several occasions we have had excellent results from those 
grown in the shade and drawn with heat until they were the 
size of knitting needles. Stock properly handled will give 
good cuttings, and would take weak ones only when absolutely 
necessary. 

M iking Cuttings. — These are cut from an inch to three 
inches long, removing the lower and shortening the tips of the 
larger leaves. See Fig. 1. 

AVith a knife make a cut in the sand % in. deep, or more, 
according to length of cuttings, inserting close together and 
firm the sand well about them. Give the whole a liberal water- 
ing and keep constantly wet until rooted, which will require 
six to twelve days. 

To insure the largest percentage the cuttings should be 
moderately soft at the time they are removed from the plant. 
Single eye cuttings of new and scarce sorts may be used when 
necessary. These are fastened to toothpicks with fine stem- 
ming wire, allowing half of the tooth-pick to extend below the 



12 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 



end of the cutting, which should firmly rest on the sand 
when inserted in the bed. See C. Fig. 1. It requires more 
time to produce good plants by this system than where 
fair sized cuttings are taken, but is often of service where stock 
is limited. 

Air and Temperature.— The propagating house should be 
well aired and as far as possible the atmospheric temperature 
should not exceed 55 degrees, with a bottom heat of 10 degrees 
higher. 




Fig i, Cuttings— A, long; B, short; C, single eye. 

The Chrysanthemum is so susceptible of being rooted that 
no fast rule can be given. They may be struck in a tempera- 
ture as low as 40, and as high as 80 degrees, but if the former 
is adopted they root very slowly and many varieties become 
hard and refuse to root. On the other hand if too high temper- 
ature is used cutting bench fungus is liable to set in and ruin 
the crop. 

Shading. — As the season advances and the out-door temper- 
ature rises, it is impossibe to maintain 55 degrees and the 
soft cuttings are very much inclined to flag or wilt. For 



PROPAGATION. 



13 



February and March propagation, tack burlap on the under- 
side of the glass to exclude the greater portion of sunlight, and 
as the season advances apply whitewash on outside of the glass. 
By such protection the cuttings can generally be rooted in 
fair condition up to 1st of May. After this date cover the propa- 
gating beds with newspapers to further protect them from the 
extreme heat and give copious watering two or three times a 
day. Let the condition of cuttings be index for shading but 
use every precaution necessary to prevent wilting, exclude 
light by covering and damp the walks to lower the temper- 
ature. 

Watering. — Tt is very 
important that cuttings 
should never get dry, for 
under such conditions the 
end inserted in the sand 
becomes brown and hard- 
ened and will not take up 
water in sufficient quan- 
tity to revive the foliage, 
thus becoming worthless. 
Many of the wholesale 
florists propagate chrys- 
anthemums the y e a r 
round, although the bulk 
are struck during the 
months of March, April 
and May. 

Saucer System. — Those 
who wish to propagate a 
few plants and are not 
favored with the facili- 
ties of the greenhouse, 
may use shallow boxes 

or any dish that will hold a few inches of sand. A dozen 
or more cuttings may be inserted at a time by adopting the 
"Saucer System" given by Peter Henderson in his work "Practi- 




A plant by division. 



14 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

cal Floral Culture," which is as follows: "It is called the 
Saucer System because saucers or plates are used to hold the 
sand in which the cuttings are placed. The sand is put in to a 
depth of an inch or so and the cuttings are inserted in it close 
enough to touch each other. The sand is then watered until it 
becomes the condition of mud, and placed on the window sill 
fully exposed to the sun. But one condition is essential to suc- 
cess, until the cuttings become rooted the sand must be contin- 
ually saturated and kept in the condition of mud; if once al- 
lowed to dry up, the whole operation will be defeated." 

English Method. — The English method may be of service to 
the amateur and is as follows: Insert, three or four cuttings 
around the edge of a four-inch pot that has been previously 
filled with light soil, consisting of loam, sand and leaf mould, 
equal parts. These are placed into a close frame and' given 
same attention as suggested for Imported Stock, pg. 10. 

Divisions. In localities where the plants remain out-of-doors 
over winter without injury, they can be increased by removing 
the sprouts or stools that have sprung up from the base of the 
old plant. As these stools come into active growth, roots are 
formed near the surface of the soil, and may then be removed 
and replanted or potted as desired. Often such pieces are 
difficult to pot owing to the long crooked steins. These are 
removed as shown in Fig. 2, leaving a few roots to establish the 
young plant. New varieties are generally produced by seeds 
which are fully treated in Chapter XII. 

Potting. — Cuttings should not remain in the bench after the 
roots are half an inch long, as they are potted easier and 
better in every way than when allowed to remain until the roots 
are further developed. 

The soil should not be dry, but moist enough to remain in- 
tact when squeezed in the hand, and on the other hand 
not be muddy. Cuttings are usually potted in small pots, the 
two-inch size being ample. Put sufficient soil in the bottom of 
the pot, so that the base of the cutting will be about % of an 
inch below the surface, hold cutting in center of pot with one 
hand and fill in with the other. Firm the soil with thumb or 



SPECIMEN PLANTS. 15 

fingers enough to keep the cutting upright and be sure to 
leave sufficient space for water, which should be applied liber- 
ally without delay. 



CHAPTER IV. 

SPECIMEN PLANTS. 

Cuttings may be taken any time from January 15th, to 
March 15, but those struck in February give best results. As 
soon as rooted they are potted in 2 in. pots using light soil and 
placed in a cool, airy house and as near the glass as possible. 
If given proper attention, such plants will make large speci- 
mens from three to six feet high, and nearly as wide by flower- 
ing time. In the course of a week or ten days the roots will 
push to the side of the pot and will need shifting into the next 
larger size. 

#o^.— There are many ideas as to what soil is best suited 
for chrysanthemums. Each expert has a way of his own.in 
preparing the soil, but as equally good results have been ob- 
tained under varied conditions, it is safe to conclude that the 
compost employed has little to do with results, provided it 
contains sufficient food to nourish the plant and the cultivator 
is a close observer, considering the conditions under which 
they are grown. 

All concede that fresh cut sod piled late the preceeding fall 
with one-fourth its bulk of decomposed manure, makes an ex- 
cellent compost. 

Repotting.— Turn out the plants, take them with the left 
hand and piace in the new pot (which is generally an inch 
larger than the one from which they were removed) so that the 
ball is a half an inch below the rim of the pot and. the plant 
stands in the center. While held in this position, fill in suffi- 
cient soil and firm gently with a stick around the pot, until 
it is filled level with the original ball of earth. If the soil is 
retaintive and rather wet, the ramming process can be carried 
to extremes, but if of a light nature, it should be mad© 



16 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

rather lirm,[and when the final potting is done, it can scarcely 
be carried to excess. 

Stopping. — The term "stopping" means pinching out the 
center of a shoot, and the object is, to force the plant to make 
several growths instead of the present one. 

When the plants are established in four-inch pots 
they are generally from four to six inches high, and at this 
stage the pinching and stopping begins. This should be done 
a few days before repotting or deferred until after the plants 
have made roots into the new soil. This induces the plant to 
make several side shoots, and as soon as these have attained 
four or five inches in length they are again stopped. This work 
is repeated throughout the season up to August 10th. Some of 
the varieties may be stopped a trifle later, but each cultivator 
must know the flowering time of those under his care. 
The early varieties set bud earlier, and it may be wise to dis- 
continue stopping some of these as early as August 1st. By 
April 1st to 15th the plants should be in full vigor and ready to 
shift into six-inch pots, with this potting use a richer soil by 
adding to the ordinary compost a dusting of wood ashes, and a 
little pulverized sheep manure. The latter should be used in 
very small proportions. 

Drainage. — Free drainage is essential and would recom- 
mend charcoal to be used for such varieties as are liable to 
burn. Coal ashes is also a good material for this purpose and 
may be used as advantageously as broken crocks. Pot firmly 
when the soil is light, and loosely when the soil is heavy. At 
this stage the plants are carefully observed, their manner of 
growth noted, also tendency to break, and liability to disease. 
The good as well as the bad points are almost certain to appear 
during April and only sur-h as promise well are shifted up to 
the largest sizes. Some of the varieties have the habit of sett- 
ing premature buds at this stage of growth. Such conditions 
are unfavorable to the production of fine specimens, although 
the greater majority will outgrow the defect after this 
blooming period has passed. 



SPECIMEN PLANTS. 17 

From 1st to i5th of May another shift will be necessary and 
this time into seven or eight-inch pots, according to the varie- 
ties. The weaker growing should be put into the smaller size, 
and the stronger ones into the largest. As the plants at this 
season begin to assume some size and owing to the higher 
temperature which prevails, the watering will need constant 
attention. In repotting at this time the plants should be set 
low enough in the pot to allow ample space for water, not less 
than an inch, but better an inch and a half, to hold sufficient 
water to saturate all parts- of the soil. 

Final Potting. — The final potting occurs from June 1st to 
15th; for this give a richer compost, using a rather rough open 
soil containing a large portion of broken, half decomposed sods. 
This must be packed more firmly in the pots. A close, heavy 
loam is bad, but if it must be used, it should be only lightly 
firmed; sufficient sharp sand may be used to keep the water 
passing out freely. 

Watering. — All experts agree that the plants should never 
suffer for want of water, and consider it one of the most 
important details in all stages of development. On the other 
hand it is very important that the drainage be ample so that 
the water passes through freely, thus preventing stagnation, a 
condition condusive to disease, which will finally result in fail- 
ure. 

It sometimes occurs that the exact condition of plants in 
pots is not fully indicated by the appearance of the soil. A 
very accurate course to follow is to rap the pots with the 
knuckles or a stick, those that are wet have a dull sound, and 
those that are dry a hollow sound. A few days- trial will teach 
the operator to detect the difference in sound at an instance. 

Staking. — During August many of the plants will have at- 
tained considerable height, even though they have been 
stopped every few days. Those which are inclined to make 
too dense growth should be provided, with a few stakes and the 
branches gradually tied out to the desired form, thus making 
a foundation to build upon later. These stakes will need to be 



18 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

removed later on, and replaced by longer ones, when it is 
determined how tall the plants are likely to grow. 

Early in September it will be necessary to consider the final 
staking and tying out. The main object in specimen plants is 
to develop as many growing shoots as possible before the mid- 
dle of August, arranging them so as to keep the plants even 
and regular in form. How this is to be done is somewhat a 
matter of taste, but it is easier to do it all at once as more shape- 
ly plants can be formed. If the plants are desired for exhibi- 
tion purposes and are to be transported some distance to the 
exhibition hall, the stake system is preferable to that' of the 
wire frame, the advantage being that plants tied to stakes can 
be drawn together so there will be no friction, and at the same 
time occupy much less space. 

The best course to follow in the matter of staking and tying 
largly depends upon the size and form to which they are to be 
trained. The Japanese growers shape their plants into many 
artistic designs, such as crosses, fans, boats, parasols, etc. When 
such forms are to be perfected it is necessary to make a tempo- 
rary frame-work of wire or stakes to which the shoots may be 
tied out into the form desired, and this should be provided be- 
fore the plants attain any great size. The forms generally 
adopted fur exhibition groups are round and, slightly elevated 
in the center, as shown in Fig. 3, page 19, and are grown all 
sizes from three to six feet in height and nearly as wide. 

The operation of staking is simply placing stakes into the 
soil, the outer ones at such an angle as to bring the 
branches in the desired position to give the plant the required 
diameter. Additional stakes are supplimented to hold the 
inner branches in position. 

The best material for tying is silkaline, which does not slip, 
being soft, does not injure the shoots and as its color is green, 
is not so conspicuous as where white string is used. 



20 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

Tying out should not be left too long, in fact, it should be 
done every few days. There are always some overgrown vigor- 
ous shoots which are difficult to accommodate, but while supple 
they will bend easily. A bad hole or open space can sometimes 
be tilled by these strong growths, bending them down and ty- 
ing securely. When specimen plants are grown for con- 
servatory decoration, or where they can be practically trans- 
ported to the exhibition hall, the wire frames may be used. 

When wire frames are used, tie as many shoots as possi- 
ble to the lower part of the frame, as the greatest danger is 
conjestion at the top. 

Disbudding. — The operation of disbudding will need atten- 
tion early in September. The early varieties setting buds 
first and the later ones following, according to the natural 
flowering time. For early exhibitions say the 1st of November, 
buds should be prominent by September 15, and showing color 
four weeks later. At least three weeks are required after they 
show color until maturity. 

Generally all the specimen plants produce terminal buds; 
each shoot bearing a cluster at the extremity, which is disbud- 
ded so as to leave only one bud to each and this the center one. 
In this way the flowers are uniform in size, and if the plant 
has been well trained and tied out these individual blooms will 
nearly touch each other. 

After setting buds the plants will begin sending out suck- 
ers from the roots in all directions, which if allowed to remain 
rob the buds of the nourishment which has been provided 
for their development. These should be removed at once and 
this operation repeated as often as they appear, as well as any 
lateral growths which may start from the shoots. 

Feeding.-^- The application of stimulants requires careful 
consideration and should be entrusted only to persons of judg- 
ment and discretion. With the roots so much confined in the 
pots, even more care is required than where the bench system 
is employed in the production of cut blooms. 

The pots must be filled with roots and the drainage perfect- 
ly free to begin with. If cow manure is used as a top dress- 



SPECIMEN PLANTS. 21 

ing it would be best to dry it first and afterwards break into 
small pieces. This acts as a mulch and fertilizer at the same 
time. As a safe and lasting stimulant, sheep manure is pre- 
ferred, which should be applied in the form of a top dressing, 
adding a little sandy loam to keep it open. Liquid manure may 
also be used if the plant continues healthy, applying once a 
week at first and twice or three times a week later. Sulphate 
of amonium and nitrate of soda are sometimes used with wond- 
erful results, but must be applied with dircretion. 

From the time the buds are set success depends very much 
upon the judicious use of fertilizers, either in liquid form or a 
top dressing. Some plants will take liquid manure in liberal 
amounts, others if so treated are easily injured. Over feeding 
shows itself in yellow stunted foliage. When this occurs use 
clear water and let them get as dry as they can with safety. 

The grower needs to be acquainted with the plants as with 
individuals; it is a matter of experience and when carefully 
done may be continued until the buds show color. It is, how- 
ever, worthy to note that pink and red varieties, including 
bronze, show lack of color and also burn 'easily if feeding is 
continued too long. Clay's fertilizer is a good manure and per- 
fectly safe to use either as a liquid or top dressing mixed 
with a little loam. Soot water at times and weak lime water 
will sweeten the soil. 

The drainage must, however, be kept free, and this is some- 
times difficult at the end of the season, when the pots are filled 
with roots. Punching holes through the ball to the drainage 
will generally relieve water-logged plants. 

This chapter is largely writings which have appeared in the American 
Florist and are from T. D. Hatfield, Wellesley, Mass., who has been eminent- 
ly successful in this important branch of chrysanthemum culture. 



22 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

CHAPTER V. 



MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS. 

Standards. — The cultural directions given for specimen 
plants will be suitable for this purpose. The greatest differ- 
ence being the training, allowing them to grow without stop- 
ing until they have attained the desired height. Standards are 
generally about five feet to the lower branches, although there 

is no" fixed 
rule on this 
subject, and 
they may be 
grown any 
|H^ jl height, from 

* M^ .j^Br * three feet 

vtftH *2&?jjf' • (which are 

termed half- 
standards,)to 
the height 
mentioned 
above. It 
is necessary 
the cuttings 
be propaga- 
ted early. 
When need- 
ed, provide 
with one 
strong stake 
for each 
plant, to which it is tied to keep the stem as straight as 
possible. As soon as they reach the desired height pinch 
out the center. The several breaks which follow form the foun- 
dation for top or head of the standard. These are nipped every 
few days the same as specimen plants. The training will 
require same care and attention, as well as disbudding, feeding 
and other details. 




Fig. 4. Market Plant. 



MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS. 23 

For Market.— Dwarf plants of symmetrical form, with foliage 
down to the pots, are the most salable, and when thus grown 
require constant attention as to watering and stopping, allow- 
ing each plant plenty of room to keep the lower leaves in a 
healthy condition. Cuttings taken June 1st and grown on, 
either in pots, planted on old carnation benches, or in spent 
hot-beds, (light soil preferable) and lifted by August 15th will 
make very nice plants 1% to 2 feet high. The reason for lift- 
ing early is to have them well established in their flowering 
pots before the buds are formed. 

Another system is sometimes employed which gives very 
dwarf symmetrical plants and often utilizes considerable stock 
that would otherwise be worthless. Cuttings that were struck 
late in June and potted in two-inch pots may be put several 
together in one pot about August 1st provided they are in 
thrifty condition. Three plants to a five-inch pot and five or 
six to a seven-inch and so on. By sorting and placing the 
taller in the center and shorter at the edge, very symmetrical 
plants may be had. Disbudding and feeding will need attention 
to assure best results. 

Single Stemmed— The same culture -as given for market 
plants will suffice for this class, except they are generally 
grown in pots and restricted to one stem and flower. Those 
from one to two feet in height are more effective and useful 
than taller ones, for this reason many prefer plunging out-of- 
doors where they will have full benefit of the sun and air, 
making them more dwarf than those grown under glass. 

Miniature.— There has not been much attention given to 
this class in this country, although cultural directions are given 
in many of the old English works. 

The best time to take cuttings is from the first to the last of 
August, according to the earliness of the variety. They are 
taken at the period when the buds are just beginning to form 
and if delayed until very far advanced, the wood becomes 
hardened and do not root freely. These cuttings should 
be potted immediately into light soil and placed in a close 
frame which has been made up the same as a hot-bed with 



24 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

fresh manure to give forth a gentle bottom heat. After the 
cuttings have been plunged therein they must be covered with 
a sash and shaded to keep out the strong light. It is also ad- 
visable to spray them over two or three times a day which will 
maintain the most genial condition for root formation. 

As soon as rooted (which may be ascertained by turning 
them out) air should be given the frame, a little at first 
and increasing every few days, to gradually harden the plants 
to a natural condition. A 3 to 3J^ inch pot is large enough for 
this purpose. In selecting cuttings take strong shoots 
from plants in the open border or those grown under 
-lass, and if the selection is made from those which naturally 
do not grow high, so much the better. In this manner plants 
can be had 8 inches high with blooms 5 inches in diameter. 

For Cut Flowers. — The pot system is employed by all Eng- 
lish growers and doubtless most of those on the Continent. 
Culture, same as for Market or Single Stem as far as training 
is concerned, shifting from time to time as directed for specimen 
plants. Propagation may take place from February to May, ac- 
cording to the variety and requirements of the cultivator. 
Throughout England these plants are potted and plunged in 
the open border as soon as danger of frost is over, and could be 
so treated in this country if it were not for the ravishes of the 
Tarnished Plant Bug, which is so numerous 

If exhibition blooms are desired they may be grown to 
single stem, or stopped early in June, saving three breaks 
which are grown on, each to produce a flower later. 

Grafted. — There are two objects in grafting chrysanthe- 
mums, first, to increase the vitality of weak growing varieties 
by grafting upon strong kinds. Second, to display a 
number of varieties on one plant at the same time. To 
the experienced gardener this art is of little or no interest, but 
to the novice there is something wonderful in the sight of a 
plant having a dozen or more distinct varieties flowering simul- 
taneously. Such plants attract a great deal of attention at the 
exhibitions. 

AVhere it is the desire to increase the vitality, cuttings are 



MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS. 25 

struck in the autumn or winter months, and grown on in a cold 
greenhouse until early spring. These are used as stock upon 
which to graft, and should be done in March or April. Se- 
lect scions from the weak growing kinds and cut the end in the 
form of a wedge. After cutting out the top of the stock an 
inch or so above the ground, make a slit an inch in depth in 
the stump and insert the wedge shaped scion, tying securely 
in place with raffia or light cotton yarn. 

It is necessary that the wood of both stock and scion 
be in a half-ripened condition, reasonably firm, and if pos- 
sible have both the same size. In case it is impossible to 
find scions of the same diameter as the stock, the scion should 
be set to one side of the incision so that the bark of both will 
be even on one side. A moist, warm corner of the greenhouse 
or any place where a close atmosphere can be maintained for 
a few days will be necessary to insure their uniting. If the 
weather is warm and the sun very bright it is sometimes ad- 
visable to shade the plants to prevent scion from wilt- 
ing, and occasionally sphagnum moss is wrapped around the 
union and the foliage moistened to prevent too rapid evapora- 
tion. As soon as the scions become established, which is 
generally in the course of eight or ten days, the tying material 
can be removed and the plants given more air, receiving the 
same care and attention as other plants. 

For grafted specimens it is important that all the varieties 
should flower at the same time, and to secure maximum 
effect some thought should be given to arrangement of 
the colors. The most showy specimens are produced by graft- 
ing upon strong growing standards, using one variety to each 
shoot. All lateral growths or breaks starting out of the stock 
should be removed as fast as they appear. 

In Open Border. — Most of the previous forms of plants may 
be grown in the open border with fairly good success. The 
essential points are that they be planted od light soil which 
permits of their being taken up without breaking away too 
many roots. If large specimen plants are to be treated this 
way, ample space must be given so they do not become crowd- 
3 



26 SMITH'S CHKYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

ed, and afford the operator room to attend to stopping, 
etc. 

The lifting and potting should be done not later than 
August loth, so that the plants will become well established in 
their new quarters before buds are formed. After potting 
it is necessary they have a copious watering and be set in a 
sheltered place out of the sun and strong drafts as much 
as possible. An old shed that will afford some light is a,very 
suitable place. 

From this time on little water will be required at the 
root until they have become thoroughly established. It 
will be advisable, however, to dew over the foliage several 
times each day to prevent flagging. As soon as established, 
give light, gradually increased each day until they can stand 
full sun. 

Hardy Chrysanthemums. — Most chrysanthemums are hardy 
out-of-doors in the northern states with slight protection as far 
as their roots are concerned, but fail to be satisfactory owing to 
early frosts which ruin the buds when in a half-developed con- 
dition. The most serviceable varieties are the early flowering 
Pompons, which perfect their flowers before frost. Many of 
the later ones can be used to advantage in the southern states, 
or in localities where severe frosts are not expected until the 
middle of November. 



CHAPTER VI. 

PACKING PLANTS. 

For Express. — For shipments not requiring more than 
five or six days to reach destination, pack in wooden 
boxes that have been previously lined with paper or 
other material to keep out the frost. The plants should 
be thoroughly watered, turned out of the pots and wrapped 
tight in some sort of pliable paper to keep the earth in- 
tact. With a light coat of excelsior on the bottom of 
the box, the plants are then placed in rows close to- 



PACKING PLANTS. 27 

gether on their sides, with ball of earth next to end of the box. 
This is followed by another row in which the ball is placed 
next to that in the iirst row, the operation being' repeated until 
bottom of the box is covered. In putting in the next tier, re- 
verse them, beginning at the other end and so continue until 
finished. The main object is to pack securely, preventing 
them from shifting, even though roughly handled. Any inter- 
vening spaces between the plants and side or top of the box 
should be filled with excelsior, sawdust, or some other mater- 
ial, so that if the package is turned upside down they cannot 
move about. 

Inexperienced packers invariably fail in this respect and 
often when the plants reach destination they have so shifted in 
the box as to be entirely destitute of soil, as well as badly brok- 
en. See to it that they cannot move. 

Each variety must be labeled and some means provided so 
that the recipient can unpack without danger of getting 
them mixed. A system many have adopted is to wrap one, two, 
three or four plants of a kind into a bundle, each bundle being 
provided with a label, and are thus packed. Where five or 
more of a kind are ordered they are separated by a sheet 
of paper. 

In very severe weather it is sometimes necessary to wrap 
the boxes with several thicknesses of paper as a safeguard 
against frost. In very warm weather the foregoing method is 
impractical, as they are likely to heat and thus be ruined. From' 
May to October the plants are generally wrapped and set up- 
right in 1 shallow boxes which have been provided with a post" 
in each corner to which cleats are nailed. Then slats are placed 
an inch apart to form the cover, thus assuring a free circula- 
tion of air. 

For Mail. — In packing plants for mail shipments the soil is 
washed from the roots, these are then wrapped in damp 
moss and paper in small bundles, containing not to exceed 25 
in each bundle. These are generally labeled with a tough 
paper label and packed in paraffine lined boxes or those 



28 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

made of corrogated board. All unoccupied space must be filled 
firmly with excelsior or similar material. 

For Export.— -In packing for export there are two systems 
employed, one for the winter months, when they are packed 
tight, and the other for summer, which should provide light 
and air to the plants. When packed close, excessive moisture 
is to be strongly guarded against. Under such conditions the 
plants are sure to rot if they are to remain packed more than 
six days. There is sufficient moisture in the plant itself to re- 
tain vitality for some time, and whatever is used to fill up the 
intervening spaces should be perfectly dry. Moss, excelsior or 
cocoanut fiber are the best materials for filling. 

Plants that are to be exported should be put into a cold, 
airy house for a week or ten days and watered very sparingly 
so as to harden the wood. If packed too soft, they generally 
perish. Before placing in the boxes remove most of the foli- 
age as it is very apt to die and cause decay. The balls of earth 
should be wrapped in dry moss and tied securely. Place the 
plants in an upright position, on the bottom of the box, using a 
cleat to each row; in this manner they are held secure in 
the desired position. If the weather is severe, protection 
against frost will be necessary, and may be provided as 
previously described. 

In hot weather the same method is employed with the ex- 
ception that wet moss is used, wrapping each ball with wax 
paper. Holes are bored through the sides of the box to admit 
light and air. The holes are generally covered on the inside 
of the box with galvanized wire screen to keep mice from gird- 
ling them while on ship-board. 

Small foreign shipments are sometimes made by removing 
the soil and placing the plants in tin boxes, filling the inter- 
vening spaces with dry cocoanut fiber or moss. It is very im- 
portant when packed in this manner that all the leaves be re- 
moved except those undeveloped at the top. If the plants have 
been hardened there will be little loss. It is easy to test a sys- 
tem of packing by preparing shipment, open after a period 
sufficient for its delivery and note the condition, or if desired 
pot them to ascertain how many will survive. 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 29 

CHAPTER VII. 

EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 

In beginning this section we wish to impress upon the 
reader the fallacy of laying down hard, fast rules, as most of 
the best growers obtain their results under a system of their 
own. The English growers consider it important that cuttings 
should be taken in January and February, and grown along 
slowly for best results. Their method of growing is in pots, 
however, and the one generally employed in this country is the 
bench system. 

The private gardener who has ample space can follow this 
method with good results, but the commercial grower whose 
space is so valuable, can scarcely afford to do so and must de- 
pend on cuttings struck later. March and April are doubtless 
the months when the bulk of the cuttings are rooted for this 
purpose. The note on selection of cuttings for specimen plants 
will apply in this case. 

Assuming the cuttings have been rooted and potted in small 
pots, they should be kept in a light, airy house to prevent them 
from becoming drawn and if the planting cannot take place 
until the first of June they will need to be shifted to three-inch 
pots, so as not to become pot-bound. Should it be impossible 
to provide room for this stock after having been repotted, it 
will be better to put cuttings in the sand May 1st, and plant 
directly from two-inch pots. In this way the plants will not be 
hardened in the least and push forward without delay. 

As to soil, this was fully defined under heading of Specimen 
Plants. It is best not to have it too rich at planting time, but 
add fertilizers little by little as the plants require it. In this 
way there is less waste of material and the plants receive the 
maximum benefit. 

Partially decayed sod is an excellent material to which 
plants take kindly, and if no manure has been added 
the cultivator has complete control of the varieties un- 
der his care. Some varieties, like Mme. Carnot and its sports, 
are injured by rich soil. By following this plan each variety 
can be treated according to its requirements, giving one or 



30 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

more applications of top-dressing or liquid fertilizers as de- 
sired. This work should be deferred until the plants show 
signs of active growth, which is generally during July. 

Planting. — Those who have houses of sufficient height and 
can plant by May 15th, doubtless have best results in as much 
as the plant has a longer period of growth and becomes 
thoroughly established. 

As to depth of soil it may be used from four to six inches, 
the former preferred, as there is less liability of its becoming 
sour before the plants are well established. When the benches 
are made ready and filled with soil, the next step is to decide 
how far apart they shall be planted. There are many opinions 
upon this subject and without question the best results are ob- 
tained where ample room is given for full development of the 
plant. AVitli most varieties ten inches apart each way is little 
enough, although a few kinds which produce small foliage 
might be planted closer. In planting firm them well, leaving 
a slight depression around each plant to receive the first few 
applications of water, but do not wet entire until the plants 
make new roots and are strong enough to utilize all the soil. 

It often happens (for various reasons) that it is not practical 
to purchase new stock to replace those having been pot-bound, 
and thus hardened. In such cases plant them down to the soft 
growth or on their side, layer fashion, allowing only the soft 
top to extend above the soil. As the season advances this 
layered portion will make roots and assist materially in the con- 
struction of the plant. This method is advocated only when 
absolutely necessary. 

Firming. — After the plants begin making rapid growth, go 
over the bench with a brick or heavy mallet and firm the soil, 
so that the original four inches will not exceed three 
when firmed. If of a porous nature it can scarcely be overdone, 
but if stiff clay, caution is advisable lest the drainage be im- 
paired. By, planting in shallow soil and firming it well, con- 
ditions are established very similar to those of the pot system, 
which will produce short-jointed plants. 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 



Tying.— As soon as the plants are 8 inches in height some 
arrangement must be made for staking and tying. There are 
several systems:— dwarf, short-jointed varieties, like Merza and 
others, may be tied to wires running full length of the row, 
supplying additional wires when required. See Fig. 5. 

Some use stakes fastened at the top to a wire stretched tight 
over each row. Most commercial places use the twine system, 
which consists of two wires, one over each row of plants and 
the other a few inches above the soil. Two-ply jute twine is 







Fig. 5. Bench of "Ivory" tied to wires. 

cut the proper length and tied to top and bottom wire. To this 
twine the plants are tied as often as required. See Fig. 6. 

Watering.— From this time on the principal detail is water- 
ing, which requires constant attention and discretion. The 
plants being vigorous will use up quantities of water each day 
and at the same time we must guard against overdoing, par- 
ticularly is this the case with many of the weaker growing- 
sorts which suddenly tell us of their maltreatment by the foliage 



32 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 



begining to turn yellow, showing a sickly appearance. The 
best remedy is withholding water, not to a degree that will in- 
jure the plant for want of it, but sufficient to regain its normal 
condition. Let the appearance of the foliage be an index to 
to the supply of water. 

Spraying. — Spraying overhead will be necessary to keep 




/'\ 







*r •<4^T, 





Fig. 6. Bench showing plants tied to twine. 



Red Spiders in check, which are very hard to control. 
This process will require some judgment, for if repeated too 
often or late in the day it is apt to cause rust and other diseas- 
es. There is not so much danger during the hot summer 
months, but from August 15th to flowering time no water 
should be applied after 3 p. m., so that the plants will be per- 
fectly dry at night. (See diseases page 55.) 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 33 

Airing. — The chrysanthemum does not enjoy a close, stuffy 
atmosphere, hence an abundance of air during the growing 
season is important. 

Shading. — A few years ago it was considered necessary to 
give a light shading through the summer months to chrysan- 
themums planted under glass. This is hardly necessary in 
most localities, as shorter jointed plants and firmer wood result 
from full exposure to the sun. 

At the approach of color it is quite important the pink and 
red varieties be partially shaded from the direct rays of the 
sun, as these colors seem to be easily faded. There may be 
localities where this would be unnecessary, but in the middle 
states it often continues warm and bright into October and such 
precaution is necessary to secure color of the highest degree. 

Scalding. — After a few days of dull weather, (which makes 
the growth unusually soft) followed by very bright sun., the 
young tips sometimes scald or burn. In such cases use every 
effort to prevent them from wilting. Frequent spraying will 
keep the atmosphere charged with moisture and be very bene- 
ficial. Should this fail apply a light shading of clay to the 
glass. This is prepared by adding sufficient clay to water to 
make it muddy and applied by spraying over the roof. It is 
not wise to use a permanent shading and the one suggested 
will be removed by the first shower, or by spraying. 

Top Dressing. — In the course of from six to eight weeks 
after planting, the details given will have been attended to and 
the stock making rapid growth; the roots having extended to 
all parts of the soil. At this period they will require some ad- 
ditional food and a light top-dressing of manure from spent 
hot-beds in a half rooted state, or dry pulverized cow or sheep 
manure may be used to advantage. 

If the stock has been planted by May 15th, this operation 
will take place early in July, and 30 clays later the second top- 
dressing may be applied. If the planting does not occur until 
the first week of June we would advise giving the first top- 
dressing second or third week of July, and second the 



34 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

third week of August, provided the plants are in a healthy, ac- 
tive state and appear to need further encouragement. 

While top-dressing is very beneficial, it has one disadvan- 
tage, and that is covering the soil so its condition cannot be 
readily determined by the eye. Some use three inches of top- 
dressing and apply it all at once. Watering under such con- 
ditions and do justice to the stock is difficult, as it must be done 
by guess or the soil under the dressing be carefully ex- 
amined; it may be dry in places and wet in others. By making 
the manure fine, adding and thoroughly mixing an equal 
amount of loam, will furnish material for an excellent dress- 
ing. This can be easily distributed on the benches any de- 
sired thickness, in accordance with the needs of the variety be- 
ing treated, or in consistency with the strength of the material 
used. 

If sheep manure is used one-inch of this mixture is ample 
for the vigorous kinds and less for the weak ones. When 
horse or cow manure is used 1% inches will be about right. 
This should be firmed down to come in close contact with the 
soil. In this way the dry spots will be apparent on the surface 
of the beds, which is the main object of this process. In case 
the manure is not made fine enough, it may be necessary to 
cover the dressing with a thin layer of soil so the conditions 
will be apparent at the surface. 

Removing Stools. — Plants that have been top dressed soon 
throw up stools or suckers from the ground. These should be 
removed as soon as they appear, care being taken not to injure 
the roots in so doing. This operation should be repeated from 
time to time as necessity demands. 

Should the plants appear to need stimulants prior to the 
times for top-dressing it will be safe to give them a very di- 
luted application of liquid fertilizers. If such fertilizers as 
nitrate of soda, and sulphate of ammonium, or nitrate of potash 
are used it should not be stronger than 1 oz. to 6 gal. of water. 
It is true they would stand a stronger application without ap- 
parent injury, but it must be remembered that in a few days 
the top-dressing is to be applied and when given a thorough 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 



35 



watering they receive another dose which is usually much 

stronger. 

Blind Growth. — If liquid fertilizers are used often, or strong, 
the plants will become too gross at this early stage of develop- 
ment. Such treatment sometimes causes some varieties to be- 
come blind, that is the joints do not elongate but form a com- 
pact mass of foliage at the top of the stem and literally refuse 
to produce buds. 

At the first indication 
of such a condition it will 
be wise to discontinue 
feeding, and if early in 
the season the plants will 
make a side-break and 
produce buds later on, 
but will not be of much 
value as an exhibition 
flower. See Fig. 7. 

We do not advocate 
the use of liquid ferti- 
lizers or overly rich soil 
in the early stages of 
growth. Plants that are 
reared upon solutions 
wholly, do not make as 
strong root growth as 
those grown under 
more natural conditions. 

In the first instance 
there is no reason why the roots should ramble, in as much as 
the food is constantly provided in the available form of 
solution. In the other case the roots naturally reach out in 
every direction for mineral and humus deposits of the 
soil. 

Plants grown more naturally will develope abundance of 
roots and be in better condition to receive the continual appli- 
cation of stimulants later in the season, at a time when it is ad- 




Fig. 7. Overfed plants. 



36 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

vantageous to concentrate all energies possible in the develop- 
ment of buds. 

Chemical Fertilizers.— In the use of chemical fertilizers 
most of the failures are due to too strong applications. Our 
formula is a highly concentrated compound, consisting of four 
parts phosphate ammonium and six parts of potassium nitrate 
(salt petre). This mixture makes a very complete fertilizer. 

The formula recommended is perfectly soluable and should 
be used at the rate of 1 oz. to 10 gal. of water for a maximum 
dose. Some will consider this a very weak solution, but ex- 
perience has shown it sufficient and the old adage "better be 
safe than sorry" will be appreciated by those who use such 
concentrated chemicals indiscriminately. 

Once a week is as often as it should be applied to most vari- 
eties, and never when the plants show signs of dryness, or too 
soon after dressing; it is better to wait two weeks and note the 
effects of the top-dressing. 

It is a great temptation to those who have not used chemi- 
cal fertilizers to overdo. It must be taken into consideration 
when feeding solutions of any form the plant takes them up 
through its roots, immediately going through the process of as- 
assimilation. 

Food applied in this way is more avail abe to the plant than 
any other, and herein lies our great danger; we are applying a 
solution which is colorless, odorless and tasteless, having every 
appearance of water. 

Lime. — Lime and iron enter into the construction of 
the plant to a limited degree,, but both of these are generally 
found in sufficient quantities in most soils. Lime acts as a de- 
composing agent, liberating ammonium and minerals con- 
tained in the compost, and has a decided solidifying effect upon 
the plant tissues. It is best applied by dusting air-slacked 
lime lightly over the surface of the bed and should be rubbed 
in with the hands or slightly raked before water is applied, 
otherwise it becomes hard and is of little value. 

Iron. — Iron may be applied in the form of iron filings as a 
top-dressing or incorporated in the compost, at the rate of a pint 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 37 

to the bushel, or by dissolving a half-ounce of sulphate of iron 
(copperas) in live gallons of water and apply this solution. It 
may be added in small quantities to chemical or manural liq- 
uids. 

The chrysanthemum, unlike most plants grown under 
glass, has its season of growth and its season of flowering, 
hence our object is to produce good, healthy growth and con- 
centrate all energies to the development of the flower. Some 
varieties will stand much more food than others and profit 
thereby. To reach the acme with all varieties the grower must 
be familiar with the special requirements of each, knowing 
when to stop feeding this variety and increase the appli- 
cation upon another. It is but a step from success to failure, 
and so it is in these days of close competition, the expert wins 
out in one class and his opponent defeats him in the next; each 
having brought their exhibits to the highest degree of perfec- 
tion in one case, and a trifle faulty in the other. 

Feeding is generally continued until the buds begin to 
burst and show color, and some growers do not discontinue un- 
til the flowers are half developed. But if such a course is 
followed we would advise diluting the application to one-half 
the strength used when the plants are in an active growing 
state. We must remember that after buds are formed, the 
growth, as far as the plant is concerned, is at an end, and what- 
ever we apply in the way of food is immediately taken to those 
parts which are now being constructed, namely, the petals. 

At this stage of development the foliage on healthy plants 
will be dark green and glossy, which is due to the high living, 
but is not indicative of excessive feed; unless the leaves are 
curling badly and very brittle. Under such conditions 
caution is advisable. The mastery of this important detail can 
only be gained by the closest observation, learning to know the 
need by appearance of the growth. 

It is no great credit to stage a winning dozen if hundreds 
have been ruined to secure this "survival of the fittest," it is 
high average that denotes accomplishment in this art. 



38 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

Liquid Manure. — Liquid manure was in use years before 
chemical fertilizers were known and in the hands of the inex- 
perienced is much safer. There are so many ways of formu- 
lating liquid manures that it is impossible to give a definite 
rule with assurance of having the best. Those of experience 
know by the color when it is safe to use, but such knowledge 
is difficult to impart to others. 

The following rules are considered safe: % bu. of horse or 
cow manure to 1 bbl. of water. These proportions are practi- 
cally 1 pt. to the gallon, so that those requiring a small quanti- 
ty can make to suit their needs. Sheep manure is strong and 
will require l}^ bbls. of water for the same quantity. Hen and 
pigeon manures are excellent, but being very strong are safest 
when used in weak solution, and should not exceed 1 lb. to 
10 gallons. 

In preparing these liquids the manure is generally put in a 
coarse burlap bag, allowing it to soak for two or three days. A 
box or barrel may be filled and apply water, leach fashion, but 
the liquid thus obtained is very strong and will need diluting. 
An old rule is to dilute to the color of weak coffee, but this is 
hardly safe as some of the strong manures give light colored 
liquids. 

As, we know little regarding the strength of solutions made 
from material at our disposal, the subject is more or less a mat- 
ter of guess. Fine blooms may be obtained by their use, 
and by closely observing growth of the plant and quality of 
flowers it will soon be apparent how to use for best results. 

Burning and Damping. — Experience teaches us that the 
red varieties are more sensitive and first to show this defect. 
Some of the pink and white and occasionally a yellow burn or 
damp when conditions are favorable. From the fact that 
flowers produced under ordinary cultivation are seldom thus 
affected it is quite apparent that the concentration of food 
to the petals is the main cause and this is augmented by exces- 
sive heat and moisture. 

To avoid such conditions put on full air early in the day and 
if possible do all the watering at this time, so that the plants 
and atmosphere may become thoroughly dry before night. 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 39 

In very damp weather it is sometimes necessary to put a 
little heat in the house to keep the air dry and buoyant, even 
if not demanded by the temperature. 

The accumulation of food elements in the petals be- 
yond a certain amount are transformed by chemical action of 
heat or dampness into an acid, which dissolves the tissues. 
Why this defect is so apparent in some varieties and not 
in others we are unable to say, unless lacking in the 
quality of substance. Get varieties thus inclined into ac- 
tive growth, and discontinue feeding after the buds be- 
come half developed. They may lack a trifle in size, but be . 
consoled by the fact that your flowers are not ruined. Some 
competent growers advocate the use of charcoal dust mixed in 
the soil as a preventive. 

Buds and Disbudding. At just what time to save the buds 
is ever a very perplexing problem to the expert, inasmuch as 
climatic conditions have a great deal to do with the results. 
The change of temperature which takes place in the autumn 
months has a tendency to ripen or solidify the wood, which is 
immediately followed by bud formation. In the northern 
hemisphere this change generally takes place from the 1st of 
August to the 1st of September, according to location. Those 
living at a high altitude or adjacent to large bodies of water 
are first to feel the change, hence favored with early buds. In the 
southern hemisphere this change takes place during February, 
and for this reason the chrysanthemum flowers in Australia 
during the months of March and April. 

Having set forth these facts that climatic conditions are in- 
strumental in bringing about this desired bud state, we must 
all consider our own locality and be governed accordingly. 
Some of our best experts secure buds on some varieties as early 
as the tenth of August,- and get magnificent blooms therefrom. 
Doubtless they have solved the problem, as far as they are con- 
cerned, but there are others not so favored. We doubt if those 
located in the middle states where the heat continues through 
the month of August and sometimes into September, would 



40 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 







S 



find such an early date practical, unless for some of the early 

varieties which naturally set early buds. 

In this locality (Southern Michigan) best results are from 

buds taken August 25th, or soon after. As soon as the 

new varieties are brought under our care we make a record of 

the date of disbudding, 
_//_ selecting a few of the 

earliest, nnd repeating 
' this operation as far as 
possible every live days, 
up to the middle of Sep- 
tember. When the flow- 
ers are cut we make a 
record of best dates, and 
the next year we are in 
fair position to know just 
what course to follow. 
These records are made 
on tree labels and at- 
tached to the plant. 

Taking the Buds. — 
Taking the buds is an old 
and obscure term which 
simply means selecting 
le best and remov- 
ing all others. There are 
two forms of buds, Crown 
and Terminal. The Crown 
is formed first and if re- 
moved the lateral growths 
which surround it will make buds later. The Terminal bud is the 
termination of the final growth and must be retained as there 
are no buds to follow. They have also been termed as follows: 
A Crown bud is surrounded by vegetative shoots and not by 
other buds. A Terminal bud is surrounded by other buds and 
not by vegetative shoots. 

On plants that have been planted early the crown buds often 



/y 







Crown. 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 



41 



/- / \ 'a 



LK 



become apparent early in August. See Fig. 8. If these are 
removed the adjacent vegetative growths push forward and 
will set another bud which is generally a crown and often 
termed "second crown," late in August or 1st of September; 
much depending upon climatic conditions and treatment of the 
plant. If this bud is 
removed the lateral 
growths will push 
forward, and in the 
course of a few weeks 
develop a cluster of 
buds which are term- 
inal or final, as this 
completes the plants 
growth. See Fig. 9. 
The chief merits 
of the crown bud are 
earliness, size, and 
multiplication of pet- 
als. Many of the 
foreign varieties, par- 
ticularly those raised 
in England, are 
worthless from late 
buds, producing flow- 
ers with open centers, 
and in many cases so 
much so that they 
could be classified as 
single. The tendency 



xf 



V^ 




\ 



1 



^ 




Fig. 9 





Terminal. 



of crown buds is towards loss in substance, color and foliage. 
Varieties that produce pink or red flowers from terminal buds 
are inclined to be white or bronze from crowns. 

The lack of foliage is due to stems of crown buds continu- 
ing their growth until the buds have reached full size. This 
peculiarity is more pronounced in the tall growing varieties or 



42 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 



those which make long growth between the leaves and are 
commonly called "long jointed." See Fig. 10. 

It has been suggested that the term "single bud" be applied 
to the one known as crown and "cluster bud" to the one known 
as terminal. We can see no objection to using these terms and 
thus may be able to convey our ideas to the amateur more 
clearly. 

If we decide to save the crown (or single bud,) remove all 
lateral growths, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 8, and the 
operation is complete. When terminal (cluster bud) is desired, 
remove the crown, allowing one of 
the lateral growths which surround it 
to remain. In the course of a few 
weeks this growth will have attained 
some length and show a cluster of 
buds. When well advanced it will 
be noticed that there is one at the 
apex of the stem and one at each of 
the leaf axils, as shown in Fig. 9. 

If the center or apex bud appears 
perfect, retain it by removing all 
others with the thumb and finger. 
This operation is termed "disbudding" 
and should be done as soon as buds 
are of sufficient size to do the work 
without injuring the one retained. 
Should the center one be imperfect or injured from any cause, 
save the next best. 

The whole subject of buds resolves itself into a few simple 
facts which each grower must take into consideration before 
taking any decisive steps; viz.: climatic conditions, date of the 
exhibition, classes in which they are to compete, and peculi- 
arities of the varieties under consideration. 

The operation of disbudding should be confined to the 
early hours of the day as far as possible, at which time the 
growth is more brittle and can be easily removed with thumb 
and finger. As soon as the buds are formed lateral growths 




Fig. io. Bloom 
from Crown. 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 43 

from the leaf axils push forward. These should be removed 
as fast as they appear, or the bud will be robbed of nourish- 
ment which has been previously provided. 

Stopping.— Most of the exhibition growers of England give 
considerable thought to what they term "timing" the buds, 
that is, have the flowers in perfection at a certain date. To 
this end they resort to stopping many varieties. The object is 
to force flowers at an earlier date than they would naturally 
mature if allowed to make a natural break. This system has 
not been practiced in this country to any extent, although it 
may be worthy of consideration as competition grows keener, 

Record of Operations. — In a work where there are so many 
conditions which have influence upon the result, it is very 
important that each operator keep a fairly complete record 
of quantity and quality of fertilizers when applied, height 
of plants at maturity, date of bud, and general comments as to 
merit. Such records are invaluable for future reference. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 

Grown Out-of-doors. — It is not to be presumed that success 
can be achieved in exhibition blooms grown out-of-doors, where 
very cold weather creeps into the lap of Autumn, or severe 
frosts and freezing weather may be expected during the month 
of November, therefore, it should be hardly attempted in other 
than the southern states. The best location in the garden for 
this purpose should be one protected as much as possible from 
storms, blowing rains and wind, and all the better if a spot 30 
to 40 feet square can be selected, and a 6-foot close board fence 
built all around. 

It is a mistake to set out plants for this purpose earlier than 
May, and even as late as June, although many growers are in 
the habit of commencing earlier. The results they have at 
blooming time are great tall plants, inclined to be spindling 
and not of that sturdy, stocky nature which invariably produces 



44 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

the better blooms. Besides they have worked a month or more 
at their plants that is wholly unnecessary. 

Soil should be of a rather stiff than loamy character, liber- 
ally fertilized with manure from the cow lot, which will make 
it sufficiently rich and porous for a beginning. Beds should be 
parallel, three feet. wide, with two-foot walks between and 
raised six inches, that drainage may be had at all times. It is 
well to box in the beds with boards six inches wide, and use a 
few inches of gravel for the walks between the beds. Two rows 
of plants 12 inches apart in the rows are proper distances for 
setting out in the beds. Get them straight and uniform, and 
have a few surplus plants in case any should die or fail to start 
off properly, that the rank and file may be in no instance 
broken. 

Do not use too many varieties, and have at least a row of 
each kind, selecting those in preference that have been prize 
takers at the principal flower shows. A plant will make three 
exhibition blooms of as good quality if well fertilized as it will 
one; so after pinching off the end when the plant is 12 inches 
high, allow but three well selected limbs to grow, and no more 
during the entire life of the plant, with the object of one bloom 
to the limb, or three to each plant. The best means of staking 
and tying is the wire fence method. Place stout stakes as tall 
as the plants will grow, eight or ten feet apart in the row, 
stretch wire, fence-fashion, to which the plants are tied and re- 
peat this operation as often as required. 

Never allow the beds to become dry, but water and spray 
the plants each day after sundown, and during August 
sprinkle with bone-meal around the roots of the plants and 
give a two-inch top-dressing of well rotted manure from 
the cow lot. The idea should be to cause the roots to grow lat- 
erally rather than downward, hence a great depth in the beds 
in unnecessary. 

Liquid fertilizers made about the strength of weak tea from 
hen, sheep and cow manure is best, and will contain all the 
chemical ingredients that the plants will require. This liquid 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 45 

fertilizing should commence about September 1st, and 10 days 
later the first setting of flowering buds will appear. 

When buds show color stop all fertilizing and give soft 
water. A covering of canvas laid on sloping rafters should be 
given the beds to protect the opening blooms from rain or dust, 
in fact not a drop of water should be allowed to come in con- 
tact with a bloom at any time, and great care should be used in 
spraying. 

Disbudding will have to be close attended to, allowing but 
one (the most promising) to each limb, and usually the termin- 
al bud is chosen for best results. The crown or early center 
bud is best for some varieties, but experience will have to be 
the teacher. Watch for insects closely: caterpillars, aphis, 
mealy bugs and corythuca that huddle on the under side of the 
leaves. Keep on the lookout for these enemies, and at the first 
indication apply tobacco tea, or strong soapsuds to prevent 
their getting a strong foothold. 

Do not expect blooms grown out-of-doors to be quite as nice 
as those with greenhouse protection, where the elements 
can be more surely controlled. The grower should never at- 
tempt exhibition blooms of any character if he is not prepared 
to devote time each day to them, and under no circumstances 
allow the slightest procrastination or neglect. The plants in 
time will repay most handsomely. 

S. J. Mitchell, Houston, Texas, who has devoted much time and study 
to the chrysanthemum, particularly the subject of exhibiting and judging, 
has kindly supplied the foregoing article. 

Australian Method.~The conditions in the southern states 
are similar to those of Australia, admitting of the flowering of 
chrysanthemums out-of-doors. Thinking that the methods em- 
ployed there may be of service to southern growers we give 
the following suggestions by G. Brunning & Sons, Australia. 
It should be taken into consideration that their spring is our 
fall; so that where the month is specified we should add six 
months. This would make September, March, or the proper 
time to begin propagation. And again, where it refers to the 
buds appearing in February, we should substitute August. 



46 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

Propagation.— "Stand the old plants of the previous season 
in some open, airy position to break. From these suitable cut- 
tings of about three inches in length are taken in September 
(March). After removal of some of the lower leaves the cut- 
tings are inserted singly in two or three-inch pots filled with 
light, open soil and plunged in sand in a close glass frame. 
The only attention required until they are rooted being an 
occasional watering or sprinkling and ventilation for an hour 
or two in the morning." 

Potting and Subsequent Treatment. — "When the plants are 
fairly established and hardened off, repot into 5-inch pots, 
using a good open soil and well drained pots. The soil 
need not be too rich, as only a moderate growth is desirable at 
the present stage. Pinch out the leading shoot at this time, 
thus causing the side buds to break and furnish the necessary 
leading growth. The plants are plunged in sand in an open 
sunn} r position and progress rapidly, so that by the second week 
in November (May) they are ready for 7-inch pots, when a little 
richer soil than previously used can be substituted, in which 
they may remain until the first week in January (July). 

Now, instead of removing them into larger pots, break a 
good sized hole in the bottom of the pot in which they now are 
and plunge to the rim in a well drained and sheltered bed, 
placing some good prepared soil under them, (such as a mix- 
ture of heavy loam, peat, sand and manure) say in the follow- 
ing proportions: }{ heavy loam, yi peat, % sand, and % horse 
droppings; adding some crushed bones, wood ashes, and a little 
soot. Should heavy loam not be procurable clay may be used 
as a substitute. 

By this method an opportunity is afforded them with liquid 
manure much easier and oftener than could be done if planted 
out in the open ground, and the plants will not attain such a 
height, provided they are firmly potted when shifted into the 
7-inch pots. 

The only liquid manure we would advocate is made by fil- 
ling a small bag with about 28 lbs. of fresh cow dung, adding a 
little soot (about 4-inch pot full), placing same in a tub contain- 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 



47 



ing 20 gallons of water, leaving it to stand three or four days 
before using. Dilute y 2 pint of this mixture to 2 gallons of 
water. Renew this preparation every two or three weeks. This 
manure may be given from the second week in January (July), 
not oftener than once a week till the buds are taken, as over 
manuring has a tendency toward promoting blind buds and in 
their later stages causing blooms to damp." 




Fig. II. Shelter or Snug Harbor. 



Skelter or Snug Harbor.— At the approach of cool nights 
protection will be necessary where the flowers are to be per- 
fected out-of-doors. The plan generally adopted is to build a 
light framework upon which cloth is stretched and fastened to 
form a roof. For the sides a cloth curtain should be provided 
and fastened in such a manner that it may be rolled up from 
the bottom to admit air on pleasant days. If the plants are 



48 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 



situated next to a building or tight board fence this will answer 
for one side of the enclosure to which the framework may 
be attached. See Fig. 11. 



CHAPTER IX. 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS. 



In a general way this subject is quite similar to the preceed- 
ing one. As the flowers are raised for the sole purpose of 
placing upon the market from a remunerative standpoint, 
the commercial grower has many things to consider in bring- 
ing about this desired end. The length of time to produce the 
crop, and sacrificing other stock to 
make ready for planting are import- 
ant factors, and thus the planting is 
often deferred to a time more oppor- 
tune. Under these conditions the bulk 
of planting generally occurs from 
June loth to the latter part of July. 

The general details as given for 
planting, top-dressing, staking and 
tying, will be practical in this case. 
If planted late they may be set closer 
together, and if the demand is for 
medium rather than large flowers 
they may be stopped and several 
breaks allowed to flower. A plan 
adopted by some is to pot and plant 
two cuttings together and grow un- 
stopped, each producing one bloom. This is very practical for 
dwarf varieties and also those having small foliage, of which 
Ivory is a good example. 

Feeding.— Liquid manures, chemicals, or both may be used. 
The first mentioned requires more labor to prepare than chem- 
icals, which if used in large quantities, are the cheapest. Five 
dollars worth of concentrated chemicals will be ample for 




Bloom from 
Terminal. 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS. 49 

L0,000 plants and sufficient manure could not be purchased and 
prepared for several times this amount. 

Buds '-In this branch of chrysanthemum culture there is 
little necessity that any great knowledge be acquired regard- 
ing the two forms of buds, crown and terminals. 

The flower buving public insist that the stems be of good 
length and well clothed with foliage. All concede those pro- 
duced from terminal buds are of brighter color and amply pro- 
vided for as far as foliage is concerned. See Fig. U. 

The bulk of chrysanthemums planted for commercial use 
do not set early crowns, owing to late planting. Some make 
second crowns late in August, and those planted in Juh give 
terminals in September aud October. 

Earlu.-U the desire is to produce early flowers we cannot 
too strongly impress the necessity of planting ear y and 
should be the endeavor to have them benched early in June at 
L test, It is .foolish to expect early flowers rom late 
^ned stock even though the varieties are naturally early. 
P T use ^ o grow such varieties as Opah, Marq. de Montmart 
and tie wo Fitzwigram's, may take the first bud that appears 
affer Auglt loth, with the expectation of good results and 
have the crop all marketed early in October. 

iofc-lFor later flowers select varieties which naturally 

t Z late and keep them in a growing state as long as possi- 

r i late'buds give a liberal amount of water and 

1 the approach of cold nights lessen the supply of air this 

at the approve ffr _ wth soft The mid season varieties 

will tend to keep the S^^ m usually aatiatac t„ry. 

^eotl 1 plan 1 adopted l nofnse very rich sol. and with- 

holc U u d toSl era Until disbudded, otherwise they are apt to 

I h d See blind growth, page 85. Buds secured from 

Oetber 1st to 15th wi/perfect flowers between Thanksg.vmg 

and Christmas. 

u ■ I, „f Pta»ts.-It is sometimes advantageous to take 

■ buds rather than terminals, owing to limited space be- 

niub^h and glass. Fig. !3, shows Yellow Mr, J. Jones, 



50 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 



'^N 




the first plant 42 inches high with terminal bud, the other 28 
inches high and crown bud. The first made a 14-inch growth after 
the crown was removed before setting terminals thirty days 
later. 

To know the height a variety will attain at maturity is im- 
portant, particularly when head room is limited. If records 
have not been kept it is wise to confer with those who give these 

matters constant 
study and can 
suggest varie- 
ties suitable for 
~ : ***t / the purpose. 

- 1£ When to Cut. 

— At what stage 
of development 
the fl o w e r s 
should be cut 
is perplexing to 
some. The pet- 
als have more 
substance when 
fully matured, 
and for this reas- 
on most varie- 
ties should not 
be cut before 
center petals 
are developed. 
This gives 
greater depth, 
adding to finish 
of blooms, as well as increasing the keeping qualities and are 
thereby in better condition to stand the wear and tear of ship- 
ping and handling. It is allowable to cut early varieties un- 
matured, if fancy prices result therefrom, otherwise it is best 
to let them stand. Varieties having open centers when fully 
developed may also be cut premature. All blooms should be 
stored in water at least 12 hours before sending to the market. 



13. Comparative Height from 
Crown and Terminal. 



INSECTS. 51 

CHAPTER X. 

INSECTS. 

Aphis.— The black and green aphis infest chrysanthemums 
in all stages of their development and are very persistent in 
their depridations. The best remedy is to fumigate with 
tobacco stems and manufactured products, such as aphis punk 
and tobacco dust. If tobacco stems are used it is necessary 
to dampen them a few hours ahead so they will burn slow and 
prevent them from blazing, which generates heat and gas 
that often burns the foliage. The manufactured articles are 
generally accompanied by full instructions for their use. 

It is impossible to fumigate plants out-of-doors and not al- 
ways convenient to do so under glass. Under such conditions 
tobacco dust may be applied to the parts infested after they 
have been sprayed so it will adhere. Such applications are 
easily removed by spraying, but if possible should remain two 
or three days before removal. Sometimes tobacco dust is not 
at hand and the presence of aphis demands prompt action. A 
decoction made by leaching tobacco stems or placing them iu a 
vessel and covering with hot water for a few hours will have 
the desired effect, and is best applied by some form of a spray 
pump. There are several forms of tobacco extracts that may . 
be used in the same way, all of which are provided with com- 
plete directions. 

Bed Spider.— The most difficult insect we have to contend 
with under glass is the red spider, which is very minute, scarce- 
ly discernible by the naked eye, but if allowed to go unchecked 
will become very numerous, forming a tine web about the 
leaves and buds. It is generally first detected on the underside 
of the leaves where they are not dislodged by spraying. Dry, 
hot air is most congenial to their welfare and after these con- 
ditions have been brought about by turning on heat, houses 
have been ruined which were apparently clean and gave great 
promise early in the season. 

The best remedy hnown is water, which should be applied 
in the form of spray with as much force as possible to destroy 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 



the web and dislodge them. It is important that it be applied 
to the under as well as the upper side of the foliage. Thorough 
and repeated applications are the only source of relief. Tobac- 
co smoke has little or no effect as far as can be ascertained. 

Thrips also infest the chrysanthemum occasionally and 
thrive under the same conditions as red spiders, although not 
so much dreaded. Where the hose is used freely and plants 
well sprayed they are easily exterminated. 

Mealy Bug. — As commonly known it is a white, mealy, 
downy looking insect. Generally it does not infest chrysan- 
themums to any extent, but we have seen cases where they 
were more or less troublesome. If 
not very numerous they may be 
hand picked. When this is im- 
practical, alcohol diluted one-half 
and applied with a brush or atom- 
izer will destroy them without in- 
juring the foliage. 

Grasshoppers are sometimes 
troublesome and the best remedy 
is handpicking. This should be 
done as early in the morning as 
convenient, when they are more do- 
cile and easily caught. 

Tarnished Plant Bug is a great hinderance and often causes 
total failure to plants grown in the open border. See Fig. 14. 
They are brought into the greenhouse on various plants, like 
carnations and geraniums, and immediately find a favorable 
feeding ground upon the chrysanthemum. This destructive 
bug procures its food by thrusting its proboscis into the tender 
growths, extracting the sap, thus causing the tips to flag which 
may be considered evidence of their presence. In the young 
state they are of a yellowish green color and seem to confine 
their depridation to the apex of the stem and soon destroy the 
center. 

As soon as the lateral growths push forward they take to 




Fig. 14. Tarnished 
Plant Bug. 



INSECTS. 



53 



these, and thus the operation is repeated until the plant often 
becomes a mass of blind growth. 'See Fig. 15. 

The adults are yellowish brown, about 3-16 of an inch in 
length, and will continue their destructive work upon any part 
of the plant or flower that is soft and abundant with sap. They 
puncture with such violence as to distort the growth and ruin 
promising buds, and later on deface the petals of expanding 
flowers. The pest is known in nearly all parts of the United 




Fig. 15. Depridations of the Tarnished Plant Bug. 
Branch showing mass of blind growth. 

States, being more or less destructive to many other plants, 
such as asters, goldenrod and sunflowers, and they .are very 
partial to carnation blooms. 

Hand-picking is the best remedy we have found, and who- 
ever attempts to catch any of these little intruders must be 
alert indeed. The adults will fly at the first intimation of your 
presence and the young either hide under the leaves or drop to 
the lower part of the plant. 



54 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

Corythuca Gossypi is about the size of a full grown aphis, 
color, a dirty gray, having a woolly appearance. It is more or 
less troublesome throughout the southern states, but is little 
known in the north, although it has been reported in many 
localities. Its habit is similar to the red spider feeding upon 
the under side of the foliage. It is reported as being very des- 
tructive, and the affected leaves curl and die. When disturbed 
they fly to the ground and immediately return to the plants by 
climbing up the stems and are soon re-established. The best 
remedy is weak kerosene emulsion, and this should be applied 
to the under side of the leaves to be most effective. 

Ghrub Worm. — The common white grub so prevalent in 
meadows is often carted into the house with the soil. The first 
indication of their presence is, the plant Mall begin to wilt and 
eventually die. They harbor in the soil and feed upon the 
mots and should be hunted out and killed. 

Cut Worm. — This dark colored worm which sometimes at- 
tains two inches in length, burrows in the ground and at night 
feeds upon the foliage of the plant, generally going to the tend- 
er leaves at the top. Owing to their nocternal habits they are 
easier caught at night. 

Lady Bird (Coccinella.) — This little beetle varies in size and 
color, being from^ to % of an inch in length in the adult form 
and nearly round. Commonly red with black spots, varying in 
size and number, and may be black with red spots, or unspotted 
red or black, also more or less marked with yellow. 

In the larvse state they are % inch long, color, bluish- 
gray, more or less marked with yellow and black spots. At a 
certain stage of development they fasten themselves*to the un- 
der side of the leaves and in a day or so shed their larvse coat 
and are thus transformed to the winged or mature state. In all 
stages they feed upon the aphis but are more active and greedy 
when young. They are also known in this country as lady bug 
and should never be molested, as their persistent hostility to 
the aphis is very beneficial. 

Goldeneye, also known as lace-wing and lice-lion, is another 



DISEASES. 55 

friendly insect feeding upon the aphis. In the yonng state they 
cover themselves with the skins of their victims. The larvae is 
quite similar to that of the lady bird. In the mature form they 
somewhat resemble the katydid but have no hoppers. The 
wings are large in proportion to the body, thin and transparent, 
marked with a net-work of fine dark lines. When full grown 
they are an inch or more in length. 

Chrysanthemum Fly. — This insect closely resembles our 
honey-bee, although a trifle larger. When on the wing it makes 
a similar humming sound but can be handled with impunity as 
it cannot sting. It makes its appearance with the first chrysan- 
themum flowers and disappears at the close of the flowering 
season. 

It cannot be considered a foe or friend, its sole object being 
to gather bee-bread from the more single flowers. It has been 
used for the purpose of raising seed, being an excellent agent 
in fertilizing flowers as it continually roams from one flower to 
another. Seed thus obtained cannot be considered very valua- 
ble, inasmuch as they never 'visit flowers that are fully double 
and the results thus obtained would be degenerative rather 
than progressive. 



CHAPTER XI. 

DISEASES. 

Bust is not so prevalent in this country as in England 
from the fact our atmosphere is dryer. It makes itself appar- 
ent with the approach of cool nights and is generally aug- 
mented by excessive moisture. 

H. J. Jones, Lewisham, England, describes this fungus in 
the following comprehensive manner. "It appears the fungus 
originates in the tissue of the leaf, and is mostly confined to 
the under side, although there are many instances in which 
pustules appear on the upper surface of the leaf. A pustule, 
simply described is a little pimple which bursts, exposing 
a dark brown dust, at maturity. This brown dust is none other 



56 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

than liberated spores which drop out of the pustule, and fall 
on, or come into contact with the chrysanthemum foliage, 
and when this is in a moist condition it quickly grows and 
very speedily developes a germ tube which very soon finds 
its way into the tissue of the leaf, and after a time repeats 
itself." 

"There are many remedies given, such as bordeaux mixture, 
and ammonical solution, as well as other prepared compounds. 
These, doubtless, are more or less affective, but we can hardly 
expect a permanent cure from their use unless we maintain 
conditions that are unfavorable to the development of new 
spores." 

A few years ago the carnation rust which grows and repro- 
duees itself in the same manner, and as far as we know is ident- 
ical, caused great anxiety among carnationists, w r ho feared its 
prevalence would gain such a foothold as to be ruinous. Ex- 
perience has taught them to remove the cause or conditions 
under wltich it develops rapidly. To this end they house the 
plants early, spray only on bright mornings and maintain a dry 
and buoyant atmosphere as far as possible. 

If chrj'santhemum growers will take the same precautions 
there is little fear of the disease becoming wide-spread, or do- 
ing great damage. Over-crowding the plants so that the foliage 
does not dry off quickly, indiscriminate spnuing, particularly 
when applied late in the day in the autumn months, and lack 
of air should be strongly guarded against. 

In aggravated cases it would be well to try the following 
remedy, given by W. Wells, Redhill, England, in his new work 
just issued, "The Culture of the Chrysanthemum." 

"Spray every cutting or plant once a fortnight — from the day 
the cuttings are inserted or the old plants are cut down with 
about a wineglass full of parrafine (kerosine) mixed with one 
gallon of water, using an Abol syringe with the spray nozzle. 
If the solution can be kept thoroughly mixed double the 
strength may be employed. Then from July 1st spray the un- 
der part of the foliage with a dressing compost of the following 
ingredients: half-pound each of sulphur, soft soap, soot, and 



i/ 



DISEASES. 57 

lime. The lot should be boiled for half an hour in one gallon 
of water; a half-pint of paramne should then be added and the 
mixture allowed to simmer for a minute or so, care being taken 
to prevent it from boiling over. The dressing should be al- 
lowed to stand until it gets clear, and may be kept in bottles. 
A quarter of a pint of the dressing may be used to a gallon of 
water. If, however, the fungus is very bad and has obtained a 
hold on the plant, double the strength can be used without in- 
juring the chrysanthemum." . t* 

Leaf Spot. — With this fungus (Septoria Chrysanthemi E and .1 

D) the spore bearing cavities are imbedded in the leaf tissue, ^ 

and as they mature the spores ooze out of these cavities and p 

thus spread the disease. They may be killed by fumicides ap- 
plied to the surface of the leaf. Another fungus disease which * r 
often attacks the chrysanthemum is known as C lyD * iM)opoEkim \^ if 
Chrysanthemi. It is a more rapid grower than the Septoria and 1 
the plants effected by it are often so stricken down as to be un- 
able to make any blooms. 

The leaves of the effected plants begin to roll up, the outer 
edges turning under and this condition becomes so apparent 
that even the inexperienced grower will know at a glance that 
something is wrong. Some varieties seem to be strong enough 
to withstand this fungus, hence in nearly every case where the 
writer has known its presence it has confined itself to certain 
varieties and very often those growing adjacent were not affec- 
ted in the least. 

The best remedies are bordeaux and ammonium mixtures. 

The foregoing is an abridged article on leaf spot by Prof. 
Byron. D. Halstead appearing in American Chrysanthemum 
Annual. 

Bordeaux Mixture. 

Copper sulphate 6 pounds 

Quicklime < = • • 4 pounds 

Water 40 gallons 

Dissolve the copper sulphate by putting it in a bag of course 
cloth and hanging this in a vessel holding at least four gallons, 
so that it is just covered by the water. Use an earthern or 
5 



58 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

wooden vessel. Slake the lime in an equal amount of water. 
Then mix the two and add enough water to make 40 gallons. 
It is then ready for immediate use. 

Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate. 

Copper carbonate 1 oz. 

Ammonia enough to dissolve the copper. 

Water 9 gallons. 

The copper carbonate is best dissolved in large bottles where 
it will keep indefinitely, and it should be diluted with water as 
required. 

Mildew. — A common name applied to several forms of mi- 
croscopia fungi. The one affecting the chrysanthemum is 
white and forms a coat over the leaves and tender shoots and is 
caused by a sudden check of some nature. 

Sulphur in some form is the accepted remedj^, being applied 
as dust directly to the leaves, or by mixing equal parts of sul- 
phur and air slacked lime, adding water until the consist- 
ency of paste and painting the steam pipes. The formula given 
by W. Wells for rust is recommended for mildew and doubtless 
is affective. 

CHAPTER XII. 

SEEDLTNGS AND SPORTS. 

Before entering the details of this subject let us consider 
some of the natural conditions which have more or less influ- 
ence upon our results. Dame nature says the chrysanthemum 
shall be single and reproduce itself from seed, so in producing 
these marvelous flowers with almost countless petals we are 
working in direct opposition to her laws. 

In some of our improved varieties we are prevented from 
making further improvements owing to the pistils or styles be- 
ing abortive; and in others the staminate florets provide little or 
no pollen. 

In cross-fertilization the operator's desire is to improve the 
chief characteristics, such as color, size, form and fullness. It 



SEEDLINGS ANT) SPORTS. 59 

is beyond all human power to obtain exact results in uniting 
or mixing the colors of petals. Pollen of a white flower applied 
to a red may give red, white, or any intermediate shades which 
would be the many varieties of pink. The union of red and 
yellow give similar results, producing red, yellow, and all the 
intermediate shades of brown and tan. We have more assur- 
ance wheu varieties of the same colors are crossed. Improve- 
ments in color can only be attained by bearing in mind the laws 
of nature in making these unions. 

The chrysanthemum has a great tendency to revert to its 
antecedents. Hence it is we get many strangers when two of 
the same color are crossed. The variety, Mrs. J. J. Glessner, 
yellow, came from Edward Hatch and Mrs. J. Jones, both white 
or nearly so. This seedling partook of the parentage of Ed. 
Hatch which was Gloriosum, yellow, and Ada Spaulding, pink. 

Form, size and fullness are improved only by careful con- 
sideration of these qualifications in varieties at our disposal. 
We are more certain of advancement in the style of growth, 
securing those which are dwarf and sturdy by confining our 
operations to such as possess these qualities. 

Large and small foliage can be produced by using those 
having these peculiarities. 

• What governs the potency of the pistillate and staminate par- 
ent we cannot determine. We are dealing with minute affairs. 
The stigma may scarcely have reached maturity when the pol- 
len is applied, or the pollen may be passed its prime with the 
stigma at the height of development. These varied conditions 
may have their influence upon establishing the character of the 
seedling. 

In selecting varieties for this work the two classes for con- 
sideration are those for exhibition and commercial use. In the 
former, size is the most important factor if the other qualifica- 
tions are up to the average. The commercial grower requires 
staple colors, and the purer the color the better. Size, form, 
fullness and style of growth are important and should be taken 
into consileration. 



60 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 



Seed Plant*. — Our experience leads us to believe that single 
stem plants in 4-inch pots grown naturally without an abund- 
ance of nourishment are best 
suited for this purpose. They 
produce less ray florets, 
hence pollen is easier to 
gather. The styles in flowers 
thus treated seem to be in 
better condition, or at least 
more normal and produce 
seed more freely. We have 
arrived at these deductions 
by endeavoring to procure 
seed from those grown for 
exhibitions and in nearly 
every case our efforts have 
been fruitless. 

Plants intended for seed 
raising should be staged in a 
dry, light house, and exces- 
sive moisture at the roots or 
in the atmosphere should be 
avoided. 

Fertilizing.— The opera- 
tion begins when the flow- 
ers are half open by cutting 
the petals off close to the 
base with a pair of scissors, 
until the styles are exposed. 
See Fig. 16. 

Fig. 16. Flower trimmed ready 

for fertilization. Fig. 17 represents an en- 

larged ray and disc florets. 
No. I. is a petal which furnishes the color. This is provided 
with a style or pistil and when in condition or fully expanded 
is in proper condition to receive the pollen which is applied to 
the upper surface, (B) known as the stigma. The disc floret 




SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS. 



(il 



(II.) also has a style, but is provided with stamens, (C) which 
furnish the pollen. These should be removed from the seed 
plant with the points of the scissors to prevent self-fertilizalion. 
After the flower head has been trimmed select the desired 
flower for pollen. Push aside the ray florets or petals until the 
disc florets are in view. Collect the dust-like pollen on a camel's 
hair pencil or toothpick and apply to the stigmas of the flowers 
previously prepared. This completes the operation. 




Fig. 17. I. Pistillate Floret. II. Staminate Floret. (A) Style— (B) Stigma. 
(C) Stamens— (D) Ovary— (E) Seed. 

How fertilization takes place is fully described by Prof. 
Bentley in his Manual of Botany: 

"When the pollen falls upon the stigma its intine protrudes 
through one or more pores of the extine in the form of a deli- 
cate tube which penetrates through the cells of the stigma, by 
the vivid secretions of which it is nourished. These pollen 
tubes continue to elongate by growth and pass down through 
the conducting tissue of the canal of the style, and thus reach 
the ovary where the seed is formed." 

If a toothpick is used never use it for more than one kind 
of pollen. By allowing the camel's hair pencil to stand in an 



62 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

open mouth vial of alcohol a few moments after using, it may 
when dry be used upon another variety without fear of the 
former operation affecting the present. 

Pollenizing should be done on bright, sunny days as far as 
possible. In wet weather a dry, warm house can be utilized 
and the work continued each day, provided sufficient pol- 
len is at hand. On bright days pollen is generally very abund- 
ant, and may be collected, stored in vials and labeled ready for 
use. If kept perfectly dry this pollen will retain its vitality 
throughout the chrysanthemum season. 

After fertilization give the plants only sufficient water to 
keep them from wiltiug. Always keep a record of the work, 
showing the parents of the seedlings. It will afford pleasure 
to know how a meritorious variety was produced, and may sug- 
gest possibilities along other lines. 

Seeds ripen in five or six weeks. Those fertilized early in the 
season give the greatest number of seeds, doubtless due to more 
favorable weather at that time. Do not anticipate super-abund- 
ance of seed. The crosses which give but few seeds generally 
produce the best seedlings. Hand pollenized seeds are of more 
value than those naturally fertilized. It at least seems rational 
to expect more from seed secured by the union of our best 
kinds than from that produced by the wind without intent, or 
the bee whose only object is to secure his daily sustenance. If 
this be true, our results depend upon the degree of intelligence 
employed in the selection of parents, and thoroughness with 
which every detail is attended. 

Seedlings. — The seeds should be sown in ligbt soil as soon 
as they are ripe, using pots, pans or shallow boxes. They 
should be covered lightly and kept in a temperature of about 
60 degrees, until they have germinated. If kept in so high a 
temperature the seedlings are quite apt to damp off, and at the 
first indication of such a condition move to a more airy 
place. As soon as they have made their second pair of 
characteristic leaves, prick off into shallow boxes, plant- 
ing about an inch apart. When showing signs of crowding 



SEEDLINGS AND SPORT'S. 63 

they should be potted separately and repotted as often as neces- 
sary or planted into the bench, same as standard varieties. 

They flower the first year from seed and there is nothing 
more interesting than to look over a large lot of seedlings and 
note the diversity of color and form. After the planted seed- 
lings are established we nip out the top and allow two breaks 
to come up and flower, and as far as possible select a crown or 
early bud on one of these, and terminal or late bud upon the 
other; thus we gain some knowledge the first year as to which 
bud produces the best flower. Those that are considered desir- 
able may be saved and given further trial. 

Sjjorts. — The word "sport" in connection with chrysanthe- 
mums refers to varieties which originate from bud varieties, 
and are termed "sports." Occasionally a variety will sport the 
first or second year after its origin from seed, but generally it 
does not take place until several years have elapsed, and then 
often simultaneously in remote localities. This has occurred 
in this country, the most marked case being that of Mrs. J. 
Jones, sporting to yellow. As a rule most of the whites sport 
to yellow, and pinks to white, although Viviand Moral gave us 
a sport variety, Chas. Davis which is bronze, and has also 
sported to white in the variety Mrs. Ritson. Louis Boehmer, 
magenta pink, sported to white and named L'Enfant des deaux 
Mondes. This variety sported under French cultivation to yel- 
low and is known as Leocadie Gentils. Louis Boehmer, the 
original variety, has given us several other sport varieties, such 
as Win. Falconer, light pink; Mrs. 0. B. Freeman, bronzy yel- 
low, and Beauty of Truro, bronzy cerise. It is worthy to note 
that many varieties have changed their color in this way many 
times, while others that are now very old have never shown 
any inclination to bud varieties. The yellow varieties seem 
less inclined to sport than other colors, possibly this is due to 
the fact that yellow is the original color of chrysanthemums. 

Philadelphia, a light yellow, gave a sport several shades 
darker, and is known as Pennsylvania. It need not surprise 
anyone cultivating chrysanthemums to notice a plant producing 
flowers of two distinct colors. Sometimes the sport flowers will 



64 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

be one-half the original color, and again possibly on the same 
plant another bloom will be the new color entire. 

It has been reported that flowers sometimes sport in form, 
that is, give a flower of entirely different form from that origi- 
nally possessed, such as an incurved flower sporting to a re- 
flexed form. Such cases are at least few and far between, in 
fact we are inclined to disbelieve that such changes have really 
taken place. Cultural conditions often change the form of flow- 
ers materially, also buds selected, and doubtless some of the 
cases reported were simply due to these causes. 

To perpetuate the new color of the plant that has sported the 
method generally followed is to cut out the leaf on the flower- 
ing wood with a heel or portion of stem and place these under 
a bell glass or closed case to induce them to make roots after 
which they send forth new growth. These are planted the 
next season and if any possess the original color they are dis- 
carded and those of the new color saved. Generally in the 
course of two or three seasons it is safe to consider the new 
variety established and color fixed, as it is termed. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

PREPARING EXHIBITS. 

Some time previous to the flowering season suitable boxes 
should be made ready. Also material necessary for packing and 
staging, such as cleats, excelsior, paper for wrapping and lining 
cases, labels for plants and cut blooms, and exhibitors cards. 
This will save some anxiety at the last when so many details 
require constant attention. 

Plants. — All pots should be washed clean before packing, 
and each plant securely staked and tied, thoroughly watered, 
and plainly labeled. Where specimens and standards are to be 
exhibited, the intervening spaces between the blooms should be 
filled with crumpled tissue paper to prevent shifting and rub- 
bing against each other. With a strong cord draw the plant to- 
gether as close as possible without injury. 



PREPARING EXHIBITS. 65 

If thej^ are to be transported a short distance and the 
weather is favorable they may be taken as they are. For long 
shipments that will be six or more hours in transit provide each 
plant with a frame work, around which paper can be wrapped 
to keep the blooms clean. Should there be danger of freezing, 
cotton wadding or several thicknesses of paper will be neces- 
sary. 

Single stemmed plants are usually shipped in boxes the 
height of the pots with a post in each corner extending a little 
above the plants to which strips are nailed horizontally to form 
a rigid framework. The spaces between the pots are tucked 
with excelsior and the flowers wrapped with tissue. The frame 
is then covered with paper or other material as necessity de- 
mands. 

Cut Flowers. — Blooms that are likely to be too far advanced 
for the exhibition should be cut and stored in water in a cool 
cellar with some light, (in total darkness the foliage soon turns 
yellow,) cutting off a small portion of the stem and giving fresh 
water every three days. In this way they may be kept two or 
three weeks in a very presentable condition. 

All blooms should be cut and stored in water at least 12 
hours before packing and longer if possible. This allows them 
to take up sufficient water to harden the foliage and petals. In 
brighter weather it is best to do the cutting early in the day 
while they are firm. 

The most suitable sized box for packing depends upon the 
size of the blooms, number to be packed, and required length 
of stems when staged. They must be of sufficient depth so that 
the cover when nailed does not crush the blooms. When large 
exhibits are to be handled, boxes 6 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 
10 to 12 inches deep or thereabouts are the most serviceable. 

The box is first lined with paper to exclude air, and if cold 
enough to protect from frost. The next step is to consult 
the schedule, sorting out each entry so they may be packed 
by themselves. If no one accompanies them to attend to the 
staging, each class should be divided with a sheet of paper and 



66 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

plainly marked, giving class number so that the person in 
charge will know each entry at a glance. 

Each bloom should be labeled with a white card plainly 
written. A very suitable size for this purpose is 1# by 4 inch- 
es, which should be tied to the stem near the bloom. A few ex- 
tra blooms should be added in case some are injured in transit 
and the packer will have to use his judgment as to how many 
are required, by their present condition and apparent sub- 
stance. Where the entries require a large number of blooms it 
is adviseable to label these, even though they are to be accom- 
panied with someone who has a thorough understanding of un- 
packing and staging, as it saves much time and confusion at 
the last moment when everyone is exerting every effort to be 
through at the alloted hour. 

Make roles of excelsior wrapped with paper 2% or 3 inches 
in diameter, and as long as the box is wide. Sheets of tissue 
paper large enough to cover the blooms should be cut on one 
side to the center, and having the blooms near at hand all is 
ready. It requires two persons to pack to advantage, one plac- 
ing the blooms in the box and attending to cleating, and a 
helper tying on the labels and holding the blooms while being 
wrapped. Beginning at one end of the box place a roll of ex- 
celsior 6 or 8 inches from the end. The helper takes a bloom 
and holding it head down the packer slides the cut tissue paper 
around the stem, draws the edges downward giving the corners 
a few turns with the thumb and finger to keep in position. 

It is difficult to say how tight the blooms should be wrapped, 
much depends upon their form and condition. Those of the 
reflexed type, like Viviand Morel and Yanariva, may be rolled 
moderately close without injury, while such varieties as Mrs. 
H. Robinson and Col. D. Appleton, should be given a little more 
freedom. After a little experience the packer will determine 
at a glance how tight they should be rolled. 

It is then placed in the box allowing the neck of the flower 
to rest on the roll of excelsior, the object being to prevent outer 
petals being bruised. It is wise to select the largest blooms for 
the end of the box. This operation is repeated until the first 



PREPARING EXHIBITS. 67 

row across the box is completed and the packing is continued 
in the same manner until the third row is finished, which is 
fastened secure by a wooden cleat, pressing the stems down 
firm enough so they cannot shift. 

If the weather is warm or the exhibit to be transported a 
long distance sprinkle the foliage well and cover with a few 
thicknesses of newspapers that have previously been saturated 
with water. The aim is to keep the foliage wet and the blooms 
dry. Continue the packing until the last row of blooms covers 
about one-third of the box and then begin in the same manner 
at the other end of the box. 

Foreign Shipments- — Flowers grown in this country have 
been exhibited in England and visa versa. The directions giv- 
en for packing are practical in such cases, but would suggest 
the stems being cut not to exceed 12 inches in length, and use 
Kift's Rubber Capped Flower Tube for each specimen. These 
tubes are glass vials with a tight fitting rubber cap which con- 
fines the water to the tube and thus the supply is sufficient to 
keep them fresh. 

Another method is sometimes employed in which the flow- 
ers are packed so they stand upright, a very good system where 
the exhibit in not very large, or the distance to be shipped very 
long. The size commonly used is 3 by 4 feet and 2 ft. 6 inches 
in depth, but should the schedules require longer stems a deep- 
er box will be necessary. These boxes are provided with cleats, 
one a few inches from the bottom and the other placed so as to 
come directly under the bloom. In packing put two cleats in 
position at one end of the box and after the blooms have been 
wrapped set them in position and tie securely, top and bottom. 

As soon as one row is completed another set of cleats are ad- 
justed and the work continued. The ends of the stems may be 
wrapped with sphagnum moss or inserted with rubber capped 
tubes filled with water to keep the foliage from wilting. 
Packed in this manner the foliage dries out more then when 
laid flat in the box owing to the large amount of air space, 
hence the necessity of providing moisture at the end of the stem 
to prevent flagging. These boxes are generally constructed 



68 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

with a hinge cover, also one side or end hinged from tbe middle 
so that the upper portion may be let down, making it more 
convenient in packing and unpacking. 

Dressing Flowers. — This is resorted to somewhat by foreign 
exhibitors, but little practiced in this country. In fact most 
schedules prohibit dressing. The Incurved section requires 
more attention than the Japanese when this operation is resort- 
ed to. The method is simply to remove short or deformed petals 
and arrange perfect ones to occupy their places, also to separate 
those which have grown one into the other to form a regular 
rounded flower when finished. Sometimes semi-incurved Japa- 
nese are dressed to give them a reflexed appearance. As far as 
known about the only dressing done in tbis country is the re- 
moval of deformed petals, which are likely to occur in any of 
the types. Very often strap-petals will appear in the cushion 
of the Anemone varieties and thus detract from their appear- 
ance, and should be removed with a pair of tweezers. 

Staging Plants. — In arranging plants for exhibition much 
depends upon the schedule which should be thoroughly digest- 
ed to conform with the rules and regulations. Then consider 
space allotted and if next the wall to be viewed from one side 
only, the tallest plants should be put in the background and 
others graduated to the shortest in front. 

If the exhibit contains more than one color this should be 
considered and arranged for best effect. Groups for the center 
of the hall are arranged on the same plan, but such exhibits are 
viewed from all sides and will require greater effort to bring 
out uniformity. 

In France the space allotted to plants is covered with light 
soil, into which the pots are plunged and the earth covered 
with green sod. In this way they have the appearance of being 
permanently planted, which adds greatly to the attractiveness 
of the exhibit. 

Sta</in.g Blooms. — Collections of cut blooms are generally 
shown one in a vase, arranged on tables usually at the side of 
the hall so there is but one congregational side. Such tables 



PREPARING EXHIBITS. 



69 



will accommodate three rows in width and after the vases or 
glasses are so placed the blooms are arranged so the middle 
row will be, slightly elevated above the first and the back row 
above the second. The object is to have each bloom show dis- 
tinctly both its size and form. The largest ones should be 
placed in the back row and the smallest in front. When 
placed in this manner they appear to be nearly all of a size. 
The light and dark colors should be alternated as much as 
possible for best effect. 



'-■'■-. .,.,,. ■ . ;...;■ 




'-ioHHHHHP' - LjBP 8 ^ Br ' ^HP^sUI 



Fig. 18. A collection properly staged. 

If there are restrictions as to length of stems this must be 
considered at the beginning, but if left to the discretion of the 
exhibitor ten or twelve inches for the first row will be about 
right, and three to six inches longer for each of the successive 
rows according to the depth of the bloom. See Fig. 18. 

The foregoing rule is practical where the tables are of regu- 
lation height, about 2 ft. 7 in., but if- only a foot or so from the 
floor it will hardly be necessary to make any distinction as to 
length of stems, inasmuch as the exhibit will be viewed from 



70 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

above. When the tables are built terrace-fashion the stems 
may be nearly or quite the same length. 

Hoards. — The board system used in England for staging 
collections is seldom used or little known to American exhibi- 
tors. It consists of a board 18x24 inches nailed to end pieces 
so that the front will be three and the back six inches above 
the table and are painted green. Holes are bored to accommo- 
date twelve blooms, three rows front to back. The petals of 
each bloom are supported by a funnel-shaped cup terminating 
with a tube into which the stem is inserted and when properly 
adjusted a wedge is crowded between tube and stem to hold 
securely. The stem and cup tube are passed through the hole 
in the board into a tube containing water. 

At the Kansas City show of 1902, mossed banks were sub- 
stituted for the typical boards. These were constructed by 
nailing 6-inch boards running lengthways of tables to scantling. 
The boards were placed far enough apart to admit the neck of 
a bottle and the back elevated to give a slope of about 3 inches 
to the foot. Bottles were placed proper distances apart and the 
whole framework covered with green moss. This system is 
very practical where large collections are to be staged. 

Vases. — Classes calling for more than one bloom of a kind 
are generally staged together ^and may vary in number up to 
100. When three to six are required, 18 to 24 inches are con- 
sidered sufficient length of stem; twenty five to fifty, 3 to4feet. 
and vases of one hundred will need 5 feet or more for those 
occupying the center. In arranging vases of twenty-five or 
more the aim is to have each bloom show distinctly and the 
general appearance as symmetrical as possible. 

When the schedule states "arranged for effect," colors 
which harmonize are considered best, such as white and pink, 
or yellow, bronze and red. Sometimes a few of the Anemone 
section may be used to advantage in such classes giving di- 
versity in form. 



EXHIBITIONS. 71 

CHAPTER XIV. 

EXHIBITIONS. 

The Management— The annual exhibition requires mental 
and physical as well as financial support and is generally more 
successful when backed by a strong organization. Very few 
exhibitions are certain of being successful year after year, 
particularly from a financial standpoint. Unvavorable weather 
is likely to impair the attendance and some other local attrac- 
tion may divert the public. 

Such organizations should appoint committees to handle 
certain parts of the work, such as arranging and mailing a 
schedule, music, advertisiug, and as the date of the show 
draws near supplement committees for decorating the hall, 
etc. The preliminary, or if possible complete schedule, giving 
the principal classes, should be mailed in January. 

Make them definite, for example: best twenty- four blooms 
white, three varieties, stems not less than 36 inches, shown in 
one vase. Best twenty-five plants, five varieties, grown to sin- 
gle stem and bloom in five-inch pots, not exceeding 30 inches 
above pots. When so arranged the manager is not hampered 
with questions. The exhibitor knows just what is required, 
and the judge has but one thing to consider,— quality. 

The larger the premium the stronger the competition. Big 
prizes and honor of winning same are incentives which are far- 
reaching and should be duly considered for sake of display. 
This course is a greater necessity in localities remote from the 
center of chrysanthemum cultivation, which is probably be- 
tween Cleveland and Pittsburg. 

If a final or complete premium list-is issued it should ap- 
pear a few weeks before the date of the show and may be ar- 
ranged to serve the purpose of a program and thus curtail ex- 
pense. The advertising is an important feature and the press 
should be furnished with short items of interest to the public 
that will also refer directly to the exhibition. If possible they 
should be supplied with photographs of intended exhibits and 
descriptions of same. A month prior to the date posters and 
other forms of advertising will be necessary. 



72 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

It is of great importance to have a competent secretary, as 
much depends upon accurate record of entries, premiums, etc. 
W. N. Rudd, Mt. Greenwood, 111., in his able article, "The 
Management of the Exhibition," read before the recent meet- 
ing of the American Carnation Society, suggests the following 
for the accounting department: "The writer prefers the De La 
Mare system of exhibition accounting, as being simple, speedy 
and accurate. It consists of an exhibitor's book, a class book, a 
judge's book, entry cards and envelopes for them, a set of gum- 
med labels of different colors, 'first premium;' 'second premi- 
um,' etc., to be attached to entry cards by the judges as they 
complete each class." 

The person best suited to act as superintendent or manager, 
should be selected and have full charge of all materials pertain- 
ing to the exhibition from the first day until the hall is vacated. 
From the schedule he will know about how much space will be 
necessary for the various classes, and if wise will study the hall 
carefully, mapping out where each class and group shall be 
staged. It will also be his duty, unless left to a committee, to pro- 
vide suitable tables and vases and other requisites necessary. 
The vases should be of suitable size to accommodate the various 
classes, but should be uniform in each specific class so that one 
exhibitor has no advantage over another. These should be 
filled and if possible placed ready for use, on or before the 
opening day to avoid confusion and delay. 

Provide new features each year as the public are constantly 
looking for something novel. 

Prearrangement is an important factor to well conducted 
exhibitions. Details that can be arranged prior to the opening 
will save the manager much anxiety at the last moment, and 
whatever facilitates his work will assist the exhibitor and the 
task of judging will be less laborious. 

The Judge.— In selecting a judge it should be a person hav- 
ing sufficient experience to be fully competent, and whose hon- 
or and integrity are above reproach. One to three judges are 
the number generally used, sometimes in large exhibitions 
where there are many classes to consider a greater number are 



EXHIBITIONS. 73 

pressed into service and divided into sets, each set being al- 
lotted certain classes. When so arranged the awards are made 
with the least possible delay. 

The Chrysanthemum Society of America has adopted 
scales for judging which define the important qualifications to 
be considered in the various classes. They are as follows: 

A. — Scale of points for bush plants and standards, single 
specimen or any number up to six, in an exhibition where the 
class under consideration does not form the chief feature in the 
exhibition hall. 

Equality of size and form of plant 40 

Size of bloom 35 

Foliage 25 

Total 100 

B. — Scale of points for bush plants, exhibits of more than 
six or for any number of specimen plants in an exhibition 
where the class under consideration forms the chief feature in 
the exhibition hall. 

Equality of size and form of plant 35 

Size of bloom , 40 

Foliage 25 

Total 100 

C- Scale of points for plants grown to single stem and one 
bloom. A height of not over three feet is recommended for 
plants in this class, and pots not over six inches in diameter. 

Compact sturdy growth 40 

Foliage 30 

Size of bloom 30 

Total 100 

£). — Scale of points for specimen blooms. 

Color 25 

Form 25 

Fullness I 5 

Stem and Foliage _ 10 

Substance 10 

Size 15 

Total 100 

6 



74 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

E. — Distinctiveness. 

Distinctiveness 25 

Form 15 

Color 15 

Size 15 

Stem 10 

Foliage 10 

Fullness 10 

Total 100 

To apply these scales understanding^ they should be care- 
fully studied, determining' the important factors and these 
fully considered to determine the exhibit possessing super-ex- 
cellence. In scale D, there are six qualifications viz.: color, size, 
fullness, substance, stem and foliage. The color should be clear 
and positive whatever it may be. There is no form which 
could be considered perfect for all the varying types. Each 
possess specimens which are ideal as far as their particular class 
is concerned. Blooms having the greatest depth would have 
preference to those that are shallow, not only in quality of 
form but size. Size is easily determined and can be decided 
upon without great effort. 

Fullness refers to the number of petals, hence those show- 
ing a disc or eye would be considered deficient in this respect. 

Substance deals with the texture of the petals and those 
which are soft and flabby should be secondary to those possess- 
ing a firm texture. 

The stem should be straight, of good length and stiff enough 
to properly support the bloom. The foliage should be luxuri- 
ant of good color and well up to the bloom. It is not always 
necessary to use scales in judging, as often the contrast of com- 
petitive exhibits are so pronounced that awards can be made 
with but little consideration. Where competition is close it is 
well to keep the important factors in mind, and if necessary 
use them. 

Scale D and E are soon to be revised and it is hoped they 
will be made public early enough to be used the coming sea- 
son. 



TYPES, ETC. 75 

The Exhibitor.— A. practical exhibitor knows the importance 
of thoroughly understanding the rules and regulations as well 
as the schedule of the exhibition in which he is to compete, and 
generally masters these prior to the date. In classes which 
specify certain colors such as white, pink, yellow, etc., 
it is advisable to select a variety that is most perfect in 
this respect, avoiding those that are shaded or marked with 
other colors. Never be confident of success before your blooms 
are staged or at least until you have seen those of your com- 
petitors. 

Remember that judging to a certain degree is based upon 
individual preference and judges, like others, do not all seethe 
same. The decision may be at a variance with your opinion, 
but whether right or wrong do not abuse the judge, or criticise 
his actions too severely. If you are satisfied there is something 
radically wrong and your exhibit has not been given just con- 
sideration, enter a protest. This should be made in writing, 
setting forth the grounds of your grievance. Sign and hand to 
the secretary to lay the matter before the judge. 

Abide by the rules and regulations and never resort to 
trickery of any kind to gain a point. Such a course cannot suc- 
ceed long at best, and it would be humiliating to have an ex- 
hibit disqualified. 



CHAPTER XV. 

TYPES ETC. 

Chrysanthemums possessing certain characteristics of form 
and petalage are grouped into classes, according to these 
peculiarities. 

The following are abridged descriptions of various types as 
adopted by the National Chrysanthemum Society of England : 

Incurved. — The distinguishing characteristics are the globu- 
lar form and regular outline of bloom. They should be 
as near a globe as possible, the florets broad, smooth, rounded 
at the tips, and regularly arranged. A hollow center or eye, or 
uneveness of outline is a serious defect. 



76 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

Japanese Incurved.— -N o definition can be given to include 
all the remarkable varieties found in this type. The florets are 
either flat, fluted, quilled or tabulated land of varying length, 
from short, straight, and spreading, to long, drooping, twisted 
or irregularly incurved. 

Hairy. — The chief peculiarity consists of a covering of short 
glandular hairs on the reverse of the florets. This hair-like 
growth is shown to best advantage where the florets are in- 
curved. 

Be flexed,— The flowers should be perfectly circular in out- 
line, without a trace of thinness in the center, hemispheroid- 
al and with broad overlapping florets. 

Large Anemones. — The characteristics are large size, high, 
neatly formed centers and regular arranged florets, one quilled 
and forming the center of disc, the other flat and horizontally 
arranged, forming the border or ray. 

Japanese Anemones. — These are remarkable for their large 
size and fantastic form. The disc is more or less regular in 
outline while the ray florets vary in length, breadth and 
arrangement. They may be narrow and twisted, broad and 
curled, or droop, forming a fringe in some instances. 

Pompons. — Small blooms, dwarf, growth and small leaves 
distinguish the true Pompons. The blooms are somewhat flat 
or nearly globular, averaging 1% inches in diameter; neat, 
compact with short, flat, fluted florets. 

Pompon Anemones. — These, in style of growth and size, are 
similar to the Pompons. They are really small flowered Anem- 
ones, having a center or disc of quilled and more or less 
regularly arranged ray florets. 

Single. — These may be any size and form but should not 
have more than a double tow of ray florets and arranged suffi- 
ciently close together to form a dense fringe. This section is 
divided into two classes known as the large and small flower- 
ing. 

The National Chrysanthemum Society of England in their 
last official catalogue have added the following sections: 



SELECTION. 77 

Early Flowering Varieties.— (A) Large flowering Japanese 
(B) Pompons. 

Spidery, Plumed, Feathery and Fantastic. 

Market and Decorative in three sections, viz.: early, mid- 
season and late. 

Identifying.— Each year flowers are sent to experts for identi- 
fication, but very few understand how difficult it is to identify 
them when received in poor condition. Possibly the recipient 
has been looking at perfect flowers and the specimens received 
are entirely different, as to size, color and other qualifica- 
tions. Foliage is often the surest means of identification and 
in submitting samples do not fail to send a few leaves with 
each specimen. 

If shipped by express see instructions for packing flowers, 
page 65. If sent by mail wrap each bloom with tissue paper 
and line the box with wax paper to prevent evaporation, and 
see that the box is of sufficient strength not to be crushed. 

Each bloom should be numbered and a record kept so they 
can be reported upon in like manner. 

The conditions under which Chrysanthemums are grown are 
so varied and the blooms themselves so distinct that this task is 
very difficult and often fruitless, 

SELECTION. 

When viewing the exhibition table, notes are made of the 
best varieties to be grown the following season. In making 
these selections it is wise to consider which are most suitable 
for the desired purpose. The two chief classes are commercial 
and exhibition—the former should be subdivided as follows: 
first, where the product is packed and transported to the mar- 
ket and often repacked and reshipped before they reach the 
consumer; second, those produced for local consumption. 

In the first instance those possessing pleasing colors, such 
as white, pink and yellow, good substance, incurved form and 
long strong stems with clean foliage are the most desirable. 

Those growing for retail trade can include many others for 
sake of variety. Some of the artistic formed sorts, like Iora, a 



78 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

few Anemones, and Pompons, will add materially to any form 
of arrangement from an artistic point of view. 

The exhibition varieties may also be divided as follows: first, 
those for collections which are staged singly, and second, those 
for vases of twelve or more to be staged collectively. 

Size is of most importance for collections and as the stems 
usually do not exceed 16 inches in length, are not so important 
provided they are strong enough to hold the flowers in an up- 
right position. 

For vases, size and colors, superlative in their respective 
classes are the most important factors. Strong, sturdy stems, 
well clothed with foliage are most effective and should be taken 
into consideration. 

Many varieties suitable for the commercial grower are 
equally serviceable for exhibition. Each grower must consider 
his needs, if the demand is for medium rather than large 
blooms, it is best to inspect the varieties grown on a commer- 
cial place, or rely on the judgment of those who give this mat- 
ter their constant attention. 

Commercially the foreign varieties have met with little 
favor, as will be seen by referring to any list recommended for 
this purpose. 

They generally require greater attention to produce market- 
able flowers, than those of American origin. In this country 
the great demand has been for good commercial sorts and the 
hybridizer has selected with this in view, while foreign seed- 
ings possessing superior exhibitions qualities are most popular. 

Do not discard those which do well under your method un- 
til experience has thoroughly demonstrated the merits of the 
newcomers. 

Novelties should be tested from year to year, retaining those 
which show advancement, bearing in mind the American vari- 
eties are best for commercial growers and the importations 
should be carefully considered for exhibition. 




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SEED GROWERS AND IMPORTERS, 

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The book which 3-011 now hold in your hand, viz.: 
1 'SMITH' S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL, ' ' page 
72, gives a valuable pointer as to exhibition account- 
ing and an unsolicited endorsement of what is therein 
styled the "De La Mare System." 



Systematic 
BooKKeeping At tHe 

Flower Show. 



The clerical work of every flower show exhi- 
bition should be run on business lines. Our sys- 
tem is the best, the simplest, the least expensive, 
and, in every particular, the most satisfactory. 

We have devised, for the use of Managers and 
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time the Entry Forms are given out to the pay- 
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ly alter the Judges' decisions have been rendered. 

This System, once tried, is ever a favorite. It 
can be truthfully called the greatest Labor-Saver 
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Descriptive circulars and samples of books will 
be mailed promptly on application to 

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P. O. Box, 1G97, New York. 



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from the 

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Detroit, Mich., 3-12-04. 
Messrs. Nathan Smith & Son, Adrian, Mich. _ 

Gentlemen:- We would appreciate from you an expression of 
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mrkm {Signed) American Blower Co. 

Adrian, Mich., 3-14-04. 
American Blower Co.. Detroit, Mich. 

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pleased to state the Morehead Trap installed in our greenhouse in 
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requiring the use of a steam trap. 

[Signed) Nathan Smith & Son. 

For particulars and prices, address 

American Blower Company 
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Description of our 

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Support. 



This support is giving satisfaction wherever used. After 
trying very near every other mehod in use, we have come to the 
conclusion that this support is the best and cheapest. 

Its Chief Advantages are: 

1. Its cheapness. 

2. The ease with which it can be set, or taken down and 
stored. 

3. Being held rigid by overhead wire, the support is not 
easily displaced. 

4. The plants are never crowded but kept in a free, nat- 
ural position. 

5. The flowers can be cut on any length stem without dis- 
arranging the support. 

6. The bed can be watered without wetting any part of the 
plants. 

7. A free circulation of air can always be maintained, 
thereby checking diseases. 

8. As the arches are made from the very best galvanized 
wire, they are practically non-destructible. 

The following quotations are per ioo Arches, and it re- 
quires two of these to support each plant: No. 11 Wire, bent 
read} 7 for use, $1.15 per 100. No. 9 Wire, bent ready for use, 
$1.30 per 100. F. O. B. Adrian. In making order, state plain- 
ly whether you are referring to arches or the complete sup= 
port, as it requires two of the former to make one of the 
latter. 

The above quotations are subject to change without notice, 
as price of wire fluctuates continually. 

After careful tests we find that the 25 inch stake is tin- 
best suited for most varieties of Carnations. If shorter stakes 
than those quoted are desired, subtract 10 cents for every 3 
inch deduction in length, and for longer stakes add 10 cents 
for every additional 3 inches. 

Rose, Chrysanthemum, and other plant stakes, cut to 
any length, will be quoted on application. 

Send for illustrated catalogue. 

NATHAN SMITH (SL SON 
Adrian, Mich. 



Chrysanthemums and Carnations. 

This came from Wallace Gom- 
erall,. Superintendent of the 
famous "Wodenethe," owned and 
maintained by Winthrop Sar- 
gent, Esq., Fishkill on-Hudson, 
N. Y.: 

"For Chrysanthemums, we use Grape 
Dust with the best results by freely 
dusting with it until the delicate 
blooms come, then we are a bit shy of 
it to prevent any staining of the petals, 
but during the green state, even in bad 
weather, there is no trace of fungus, 
and we keep free of the spot. I have 
recommended it to many gardeners, and so far for my acquaintances 
have found it very valuable. In common with many Gardeners and 
blorists, 1 have Found it of. great value in checking the Rust on Car- 
nations, it is not expensive to use, for by using in air bellows it 
diffuses itself every where, and is. in my judgment, a valuable every 
day article. 11 Grape Dust is sold by the Seedsmen of America. 




For Pamphli '. addi 



B. HAMMOND, Fishkill=on=Hudson, N. Y. 



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A Complete Line of 

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Also, Hardy Herbaceous and 
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Correspondence Solicited. 

NATHAN SMITH ®, SON 

ADRIAN, MICH. 



MAY 7 11 



Chrysanthemum 
Society of America. 



The aims of this society are: 

To increase the general interest in the cultivation of 
the Chrysanthemum. 

To improve the standard of excellence in the flower. 

To improve the methods of cultivation and to in- 
crease its use as a decorative flower. 

To properly supervise nomenclature and to keep a 
Registure of Seedlings in order to prevent duplication 
of names. 

To stimulate the growing and introduction of im- 
proved seedlings in every legitimate way. 

The annual report alone is worth more than the 
yearly membership fee. Any of the following officers 
will be pleased to give full particulars: 

President — Arthur Harrington, Madison, N. J. 
Vice=President — Elmer D. Smith, Adrian, Mich. 
Secretary — Fred H. Lemon, Richmond, Ind. 
Treasurer — John N. May, Summit, N. J. 



Next meeting and exhibition will be held at Boston, 
November 3 to 6, 1904. 



LENE 



i compose* 
mi food. 
A compfe 
rther plant; 
preparation 

• 
i v . ■■' it: J 

hn 
imply 



>*d this 
ind doubtle 

lany prizes 
nent monuments 



proper quantt 
which are the 
life. 



rfc acid, 
to plant 



while F 

foods. 



Prepaid by mail , . 
if f icient for 80 gallons. 
Prepaid by mail . 
■allona 



1 



;o 11 



ed and sold hy 
NATHAN SM 



